Australia

Cunnamulla River Lights and Roma – Easter in the Country, South West Queensland April 2025

Day 1

Friday 4th April

Brisbane to Tenterfield

267 kms

25 degrees in Brisbane , down to 14 degrees that night in Tenterfield, Sunny

Today is the day we set off on our next outback adventure. There has been a lot of dialogue about this trip due to a huge rain event and consequent devastating flooding in the area we were planning on visiting. Originally we had planned to do the Natural Sciences Loop which takes in Thargaminda, Eramanga and Quilpie. Thargaminda sadly has been flooded and residents evacuated, thousands of livestock have been lost, and of course the roads are closed. So sad for these communities.

Instead we will travel via St George to Cunnamulla, and reverse our route to Charleville to minimise the risk of closed roads.

We got away reasonably early to pick up our caravan from Condamine Caravan Repairs in Warwick – we had left it there a couple of weeks earlier to have the ill-fated window repaired ( attempt number 3), but alas, the window had not arrived. So again we rely on the magic 100 mile an hour tape for another 3 weeks.

On our way, and a quick stop in Stanthorpe to say hello to Travis and Jackson. It was a short and sweet meting as we needed to get to Tenterfield before dark. Jackson got a lovely surprise to see us as he didn’t know we were passing through – it made our day seeing his excited reaction.

In Tenterfield, we stayed at a property just north of town where they offer caravan sites for 3-4 caravans. Peter the owner, who was never short for words, was a landscape gardener, and has developed this camping area in amongst his magnificent garden. Great set up.

We settled in, right next to the chicken coop and fenced vegetable garden. Chantelle, Simon and Isla arrived just after nightfall. They been delayed as they had discovered an “issue” with their power inlet point just as they were about to leave home. A stopover to see Jason at Condamine Caravan Repairs on their way soon sorted them out. Jason is getting good business from our family.

So everyone was settled in, dinner prepared and served, and our holiday has begun! Such a good feeling. Making wonderful memories.

Day 2

Saturday 5th April

Tenterfield

11-22 degrees, sunny

With a definite cool start to the day, we were greeted with clear skies and bright sunshine – the rain has gone!

Fresh eggs were collected from the girls in the pen next to us, and Frank cooked our gourmet breakfast – direct from paddock to plate!

Time to explore downtown Tenterfield. First stop, the Tenterfield Saddler Museum. The Tenterfield Saddler was made famous by Peter Allen’s tribute to his past and grandfather George Woolnough in the ‘Tenterfield Saddler’.

However, it is much more than just a song. For 50 years (from 1908 to 1960), this quaint blue-granite saddlery on High Street was a key meeting place in town. Saddler, George Woolnough plied his trade, listening, undisturbed by the chatter and opinions of those who wandered in. One famous customer was Banjo Patterson. Now this living museum is full of leather goods and historical tools.

Next, the School of Arts building which houses an interest exhibition on the history of Federation in Australia. Sir Henry Parkes delivered his famous speech in 1889 in Tenterfield which sowed the seed for Federation in 1901. A nice little cafe in the same building gave us an opportunity to have a coffee and morning tea.

We then broke into the girls and boys parties – the girls enjoyed a browse of the little boutiques in the Main Street, while the boys went to the Railway Museum.

The Station opened in 1886 and is a rare survival of something that was once common throughout NSW. It is an almost intact nineteenth century railway precinct. When the line was completed to the border in 1888, Sydney and Brisbane were linked by rail for the first time. Services declined gradually from the 1970s and finished completely in October, 1989. Tenterfield Railway Station Preservation Society now operates the entire precinct as a Railway Museum.

Then being midday in a country town, everything suddenly shut up – our cue to go back to camp for lunch. We did do a little drive through the town enjoying seeing all the historical buildings and lovely gardens. A very pretty town.

Travis and Louise arrived soon after – they had decided to bring their new caravan down for its first shake down. We had a lovely afternoon chatting and exploring the vast gardens of where we were staying. The roses and camellias were gorgeous, and so fragrant. Peter hosts open gardens here a couple of times a year.

Travis cooked a delicious beef and vegetable stew in his camp oven for us for dinner – so hearty and warming on this very fresh evening. Isla had the best time playing with Razzie (Travis and Louise’s dog), and Tosca (Peter’s dog). Both dogs were clearly worn out by the end of the night!

Day 3

Sunday 6th April

Tenterfield to Yelarbon

11-27 degrees, sunny

178 kms

Woke up to an another beautiful sunny day. After a leisurely breakfast with more fresh eggs, we said goodbye to Travis and Louise, and hit the Bruxner Highway to get to Texas. The countryside is absolutely stunning – the white sheep and brown/black cattle are simply striking against the vivid green vegetation. Being a Sunday, nothing much was open in Texas, however we did manage to find a bakery with nice coffee, and of course a pie for Frank and an ice cream for Isla… all essentials covered!

The Texas Yelarbon road took us past cotton fields, and other small crop farms into Yelarbon. Emus were also spotted along the side of the road.

Easy stop tonight at the Yelarbon Recreation Reserve – $20 per night, and we could leave the van hooked up. Across the road was a pretty lagoon supporting abundant birdlife… and even more abundant giant Scotch grey mosquitos. They nearly carried us out of there!

300 metres down the road were the famous painted Yelarbon silos – we walked down to get a closer look. One of the biggest silo artworks in Australia ‘When the Rain Comes’ conveys a sense of optimism and hope for the future while taking cues from the rich history of the community. The young boy sets paper boats afloat on the Yelarbon Lagoon, symbolising the ingenuity and craftsmanship of the town’s industries, past and present, that have carved out this oasis on the edge of the Spinifex Desert.

Lamb cooked on the bbq was on the dinner menu tonight, then we retreated to inside the caravan to get away from the viscous mosies.

Day 4

Monday 7th April

Yelarbon to St George

250 kms

12-27 degrees, sunny

We woke to find that we had not closed our main door, only the screen door – no wonder we were thinking it was a bit cold overnight!

Another glorious day ahead of us, and we were soon on our way. It was only a short drive (40 minutes) to Goondiwindi. We had a walk up and down the Main Street – some nice boutiques here, plus of course the local bakery.

On the road again, and a couple of hours after driving past small crops and cotton farms, we arrived in St George. This time we stayed at the other end of town, at the River Gums Caravan Park, a lovely spot beside the Balonne River.

We set up, then walked along the River Walk (15 minutes) into town to The Australian Hotel for dinner. It was interesting to see the flood marker pole and note the varying heights of the Balonne River during flood times – 2010, 2011, and 2012 all had major floods. Despite the recent rains, theriver is only a metre higher than normal. A lovely War Memorial also observed on our walk.

Nice dinner at the Australian, then the return walk along the river, with all the trees lit along the way – very pretty.

Day 5

Tuesday 8th April

St George

13-27 degrees, sunny

Today we explored St George starting with a visit to Unique Eggs. For over 40 years, local legend Stavros, transformed humble emu eggs into intricate, glowing masterpieces, carving breathtaking patterns and scenes that have dazzled visitors at World Expos and even found their way to the White House. Emu eggs have 10 layers of shell, the tenth being nearly white. Once the design has been carved into the shell, it is illuminated and the masterpiece is complete -approximately 80 hours of work.

Onto Riversands Winery, Queensland’s most western winery. A very sweet Swedish girl gave us a lovely commentary during our free wine tasting. We enjoyed the Vermintino, Sparkling Shiraz, Merlot, Shiraz( even though it was a lot lighter than we are used to), and of course the “Fu*#*n Good Port”.

Back to camp for a late lunch and some relaxation before our next adventure. To really take in the Balonne River’s magnitude of water, we had decided to do the Sandytown River Cruise. At 4pm, we jumped aboard the boat and idled down the middle of the river, enjoying the views and abundant birdlife including egrets, cockatoos and eagles. The sunset at the end of the cruise was a fitting finish to the day.

For dinner, Chef Frank cooked his 21 day grain fed beef steaks- they were delicious! He was rather chuffed with his efforts.

Day 6

Wednesday 9th April

St George to Dirranbandi to Thallon to Nindigully, back to St George

238 kms

13-28 degrees, sunny

A day exploring the area around St George. 95 kms southwest of St George, Dirranbandi is a small country town that comes alive through the cotton harvest months. The famous Cubbie Station, the largest irrigated cotton farm in the southern hemisphere, is only a stone’s throw away from this small town. Whilst Dirranbandi might be bustling in the harvest months, it was a sleepy town today. We walked the main street, of one block, and had morning tea at the local bakery – owned by Russians. The Visitor’s Centre was very welcoming, and we watched a 15 minute film on cotton farming at Cubbie Station.

45 minutes onto Thallon, where we had to drive through quite a bit of water across the road. Once in Thallon of course we had to stop and check out the giant Northern Hairy-Nosed Wombat statue located at the park. Isla enjoyed climbing onto the wombat’s back. These wombats were almost extinct in Queensland but thanks to a conservation programme numbers are increasing.

The other attraction in Thallon is the vibrant GrainCorp Silo art. The Watering Hole Mural covers four, 30-metre-high silos featuring icons of the district including the Moonie River, a beautiful sunset, a scarred tree recognising Thallon’s Indigenous community, pale-faced rosellas and a mob of sheep which celebrates the area’s agriculture. Very impressive.

Also stopped at the pub- mainly to see the performing dog we had seen a couple of years ago. Sadly, there has been a change of owners so Isla missed seeing the famous dog. The new licensees are a lovely young couple who enjoyed telling us about local life in Thallon.

Onto the iconic Nindigully pub, supposedly the oldest pub in Queensland, for lunch. The pub license was issued in 1864 after operating as shearer’s accommodation for the Nindigully Station. From the late 1800s the Nindigully Pub was a Cobb and Co coach change over station. I can’t say the food was that great, though Frank did enjoy his roast pork, however it was a nice setting under the shady trees, and all that lovely lush grass. The Moonie River running past the camp area was well and truly flowing – a bit different to when we had camped there a couple of years ago.

Back to St George, stocked up on a few supplies at the local grocery store, then some relaxation after our big drive.

We finished the day with a walk to the Jack Taylor Weir which is where explorer Major Thomas Mitchell crossed the Balonne River back in 1864 and gave St George its name. Three of the sluice gates were open letting a surge of water out to the lower river. We had to step up our walking pace as the mossies seemed to descend in plague numbers at sunset.

Day 7

Thursday 10th April

St George to Cunnamulla

297 kms

17-27 degrees, sunny

Packed up with no fuss, and onto Cunnamulla. Another stunningly green drive – it was green right up to the road’s edge. A long straight toad, and surprisingly good, although narrow. We stopped at Bollen hoping to get a coffee, but the cafe had closed since our visit twelve months ago, and the hotel had burnt down six weeks ago.

So onwards and forwards to Cunnamulla- quite a bit of water over the road in parts, up to 300 mls at times. Pretty of yellow lily wildflowers in the paddocks. Bird life in abundance – eagles, brolgas, and lots of emus. Also many lizards sunning themselves on the road.Some livestock, all looking very healthy.

The township of Cunnamulla was created by Cobb & Co in 1879 when the first coach drove through from Bourke. Today it is the only surviving south-west town along the original route.

We arrived at Warrego Riverside Caravan Park not long after lunchtime. We had stayed here for a night last year. The mighty river was up over the communal campfire area, but our sites were high and dry. Judy runs a wonderful park- beautiful rose and flower gardens, also lemon, orange, persimmon, pomegranate and lime trees fitted through the gardens. Each site is drive through with privacy hedges between.

We set up camp then headed to the Visitor Information Centre where we met the lovely Karen. Little did we know we were going to get to see a lot of Karen. From here we went to the Railway Museum to see the All Aboard Light and Sound show – and who should be there to greet us – Karen. It was a great holographic show depicting the history of Cunnamulla and the importance of the railway to this little town. It was used to transport passengers from Cunnamulla to Brisbane until 1994, then freight until 2014, when an explosion destroyed the bridge at Wyandra (between Cunnamulla and Charleville). Train transport was very important for the wool industry and school kids. The town’s band was also significant during these years – they played at the station twice a week when passengers arrived.

Nearby, we stopped to view the artwork on the water tower. The mural was painted in 2019 by Guido Van Helten. The image represents the children and the future of the community.

Back to camp to finish settling in and dinner. Warmer here at night.

Day 8

Friday 11th April

Cunnamulla

17-29 degrees, sunny

Synonymous with the name Cunnamulla is the Cunnamulla Fella, so of course we had to visit the statue. This larger than life statue is a tribute to the Aussie larrikin stockman. Slim Dusty had a hand in making the Cunnamulla Fella famous when he put the lyrics of Stan Coster to song.

There was an excellent display at the Cunnamulla Fella Visitor Centre about the Artesian Basin. We spent a good hour there learning about the expansive size of the basin, how it was formed, how it is filled, and about the bores. We travelled back in time and discovered the Artesian Basin as it was 100 million years ago. Really interesting. The 20 minute movie explained it all in detail, reinforcing the importance of water and the need to conserve it as much as possible. Isla didn’t want to watch the movie so Karen took her under her wing in the Visitor centre.

We walked to the Cunnamulla Artesian Spa next to the Warrego River which we were keen to trial, but with the flooding, the pumps weren’t working, so they were only doing Fire and Ice experiences. (Karen works there on weekends). The river walk next to the spa still had water over it.

A walk around town didn’t take long. Many of the shops have closed unfortunately- we did find the bakery and a cafe for a little refreshment. The country wear shop had some nice clothes and accessories. Otherwise there was a pharmacy, shoe/toy/ hardware (all in one ) shop, plus the IGA, and of course a couple of pubs.Lovely gardens and sculptures around town.

We felt we had “done” town so we went back to our caravans and had a restful afternoon. Frank and I then got ourselves dolled up to go to the Long Table Dinner marking the opening of the Outback River Lights Festival. The taxi driver, Rick ( who is also the Deputy Mayor plus the Bowls Club President) took us into town for this inaugural event for 120 guests.

We were seated in the open area of the Community Centre – under the stars, but off the grass ( the organisers moved it off the grass because of all the mosquitoes). What a lovely night – we met some nice folk from Toowoomba and others from Brisbane. The menu included local food such as Emu Meatballs, Quandong Duck, Crocodile Volauvents, Charcoal Wafers with Greenants and Bocconcini, Saltbush Lamb and Lemon Myrtle Cheesecake – all delicious!

The entertainment included local didgeridoo player Tommy Crow, circus flame throwers, and a great singer/guitarist. Great night, and Rick came back to take us home to Riverside.

Day 9

Saturday 12th April

Cunnamulla

18-29 degrees, sunny

First day of the Festival, so we headed into town for the activities. Before long we were all busy painting our paper lanterns. Isla enjoyed doing this – she loves craft. There was also bush tucker and camp oven cooking demonstrations, circus acts for the children, and food vans. We felt we had seen enough so headed back for lunch.

It was unfortunate that the roads to Eulo were still closed as our original plans were to spend a day there exploring the artesian baths, and also the Cunnamulla spa baths were closed. However, the Charlotte Plains hot spring baths were still accessible, so we drove 50 kms to get the rustic bath experience.

Charlotte Plains is a family owned 67,000 acre working sheep and cattle station, but also offering an exceptional hot artesian bathing experience with a water source that is naturally heated to 42 degrees. You start at the hot pools and move on to the cooler pools. We were sold on the benefits of the mineral rich artesian waters- skin rejuvenation and rehydration, muscle relaxation and arthritic pain relief, not to mention the improved sleep. I have to say it was all very relaxing and enjoyable. A cold drink at the rustic bar completed the experience. We drove back to Cunnamulla for a home cooked meal, followed by a serious Canasta game!

After dinner, we did have a little pow wow as to what we should do the next day – we had planned to spend another day in Cunnamulla, but felt we had seen enough of the River Lights Festival. Whilst we would miss the evening lantern parade, we thought there was more to do In Charleville. It was just a shame the weather event and subsequent flooding had impacted the little towns, and our plans.

Day 10

Sunday 13th April

Cunnamulla to Charleville

196 kms

17- 28 degrees, sunny

So it’s off to Charleville! Not a big drive. Half way is the sleepy railway town of Wyandra. We stopped here to look at “the Beach” , a sandy enclave on the Warrego River, however we didn’t quite make it as the road was closed. This “must see”town was very small!

Back on the road to Charleville. We arrived at the Cobb & Co Caravan Park early afternoon. Sandy was very welcoming and gave us a run down on what to do in the bustling metropolis of Charleville. Once we had set up, we went to the local IGA to restock some fresh vegetables and fruit.

For dinner, we walked 15 minutes to the local pub, Cattle Camp Hotel. I had a salt and pepper calamari which was delicious, the others had chicken parmy. Everyone was happy with their choices.

And the bonus… not so many mosquitoes or sandflies!

Day 11

Monday 14th April

Charleville

17-28 degrees, sunny

Where to start, so much to do! We had wanted to do the Monday morning date farm tour but unfortunately the farm was closed for another week due to the boggy roads.

So onto the Royal Flying Doctor Museum and airport, followed by a visit to the Cosmos Centre. This planetarium is the largest in Queensland. We were booked in for the Sun Viewing tour using one of the world’s largest hydrogen-alpha telescopes. We learnt about the history and importance of our closest star.

A walk around town filled in an hour – that did include a Charleville bakery stop though! The pies were a hit all round.

The Bilby Conservation Centre was on the afternoon’s agenda. Isla was so excited! We had bought her a Bilby puppet two years ago when we had previously visited, and now she wanted a big sister for her Bilby. Well, her wishes had come true! We joined the nocturnal house and saw two very cute bilbies scurrying around. We learnt of the plight of the bilby and how the team are working hard to save them from extinction. Introduced animals and habitat change have decimated their numbers. So far the breeding programme has been very successful.

Back to camp, a yummy roast pork and accompanying vegetables were on the menu. A credit to the chefs! Then Frank and Simon headed back to the Cosmos Centre for a look at the stars. They said it was excellent. The guides gave a fabulous commentary and were really good with the children in attendance. Using powerful Meade telescopes they viewed planets, the moon, nebulae and star clusters. Even a shooting star.

Day 12

Tuesday 15th April

Charleville

16-27 degrees, sunny

We were booked in for the 9am tag along secret WWll tour, where we discovered why 3,500 US Army Airforce personal were posted to Charleville during WEII. For this tour we drove our vehicle and followed the guide to 7 locations on the original Base – we unveiled aviation history, romance stories, secret faults, and got up close with one of the most classified pieces of military equipment from WWII (Norden Bomb-Sight). The interactive and self guided museum at the end of the tour was very interesting, and gave us an idea of what the US Airforce did for the town of Charleville.

Then we had to stop at the Graham Andrews Parklands to get the obligatory photo on the “big red chair”. Beautiful gardens, and ever so green after the rain.

At 3 pm we did a fabulous two hour tour with Rachel, of the iconic Hotel Corones, Charleville’s historic landmark. We heard the amazing rags to riches story of Harry Corones (who migrated from Greece at age 23), a remarkable early day entrepreneur who not only made local, but Australian history on more than one occasion, and was awarded a MBE. We learnt of the famous guests who had stayed at the hotel over the years, and heard some funny stories. The one I thought was most amusing was Amy Johnson wanting a bath in 23 magnums of champagne, and the liquid was bottled again after her bath, with an extra bottle filled! At the end of the tour we enjoyed a drink at the famous bar, entertained by Mark the bar manager. Great country hospitality.

We had our last little drive through town – we wanted to look at the Warrego River and the levy banks to see how they have tried to flood proof the town. So hard to imagine how in 1990 the whole town being was 1.8 metres under water.

Also saw the water tower mural which was also painted in 2019 by Guido van Helten. The feature of the mural are the children of the region and is painted in Guido’s signature 3D monochromatic style. The children, it is said, are playing their 200 kilometres neighbours from Cunnamulla, who they meet twice a year and often to contest a grand final. The mural depicts not only friendly rivalry but also sportsmanship, community, friendship and respect.

A quick dinner so we could enjoy a campfire – it was a lovely campfire area all lovingly made by the park owners. Nothing like toasted marshmallows and a nice glass of red wine sitting around a fire.

Day 13

Wednesday 16th April

Charleville to Mitchell

178 kms

14-27 degrees, sunny

Not a big drive today, less than two hours, more very green countryside. We did have to make a short stop at the railway crossing for the Westlander train which travels from Brisbane to Charleville twice a week.

We arrived at Mitchell before midday, a quick set up as we were just staying one night. Major Mitchell Caravan Park is in a lovely spot overlooking the river.

After lunch we walked to the Artesian Spa and enjoyed a lovely relaxing spa bath. Not quite as hot as the water at Charlotte Plains. Then a little walk around town – not a lot there – the usual bakery, IGA, a couple of hotels, a couple of closed hotels, and one all in one dress/shoe/ pet /camping shop.

Dinner at Richard’s Hotel was very filling – we needed the walk home to help digest all we had consumed.

Day 14

Thursday 17th April

Mitchell to Roma

88 kms

10-26 degrees, sunny

A leisure pack up as we only had a small distance to travel to Roma. We checked into Villa Tourist Park at 11am. It was great as we got there before the onslaught of other Easter holiday makers. We could watch them all arrive from the comfort our chairs.

In between all the caravan parking excitement, we did take leave to head into town to do some grocery shopping and take a look at the local shops. Woolworths was bedlam with everyone stocking up on last minute supplies for the Easter break. Some lovey boutiques in town, plus I stumbled across the most fascinating Ace Drapery – it was like the Myer of Roma in 50 square metres. You were sure to find something in there that you didn’t need!

As we weren’t able to acquire tickets for tonight’s Easter in the Country Festival opening dinner ( because we weren’t originally planning on being in Roma on Thursday night), it was dinner back at camp … and watching all the nicely dressed ticket holders head out for the big event at the Roma Saleyards. A big case of FOMO. Chef Matt Golinski was cooking a three course meal with the hero food of the meal being of course, beef. We followed suit with beef steak at home!

Day 15

Friday 18th April ( Good Friday )

Roma

11-27 degrees, sunny

Roma’s Easter in the Country was started in 1976 and took the form of a Country and Western music and rodeo event. It now is an event that truly captures the character and charm of Outback Queensland. I first attended approximately 25 years ago and remember it being a lot of fun.

A self guided tour of the Roma Butter Factory gave us insight into the history of the factory and how it contributed to the development of the town and Roma as a farming community in the early days.

Next a visit to Roma’s largest bottle tree, before taking a ten minute drive in the country to Moorelands Bush Nursery and Feed Shed. What a beautiful setting. Such a wonderful garden to browse with lots of pots, plants and fascinating sculptures for sale. Also a nice cafe doing a roaring trade.

Back for a late lunch and thoroughly enjoyed the Mooloolaba prawns we had bought at the local seafood van – so fresh and yummy!

At 5pm we visited the Big Rig where we went up the Tower to experience the breathtaking beauty of the warm hues as the sun descended over the Outback. The stroll along the Tree Walk was very tranquil as the last of the sun bathed the Red River Gum trees. Once the last of the sun had disappeared, we enjoyed the 30 minute interactive Light and Sound show beneath the stars in the open air theatre. Here we heard of the dramatic events that unfolded in Roma as the oil and gas emerged, and also highlighted the resilience of Australia’s riggers, both past and present.

Day 16

Saturday 19th April

Roma

12-28 degrees, sunny

Up early to get to the Easter in the Country Street Parade- we got a great position in a front position, in the shade. This annual parade show-case Charities, Businesses, Sporting and Recreational Clubs, Schools in Roma and surrounding Districts. Floats in all different shapes and sizes. Highlights this year were Bluey and Bingo. So many lollies and chocolates were handed out during the parade- no child, or adult went without!

There were markets in town after the parade which we had a look at, but ever so crowded. We got a coffee at one of the cafes, and ended up having to wait 45 minutes for it! Everyone who was anyone was in town!

After lunch we went to the Mud Derby – Mud Buggies are back! It was an action packed afternoon with a couple of vehicles getting bogged and having to be towed out.

We only stayed an hour here, as the Easter Races were also on at the same time at Basset Park. There was a five race program plus children’s entertainment – water slides, face painting and ice-creams! Great country atmosphere. I also met up with a friend I used to work with, Kym, who now runs the Turf Club. It was a ten minute walk back to Villa Caravan Park – very convenient for us.

Day 17

Sunday 20th April, Easter Sunday

Roma

17-27 degrees, sunny

The Country Markets at Basset Park were our first point of call – most were the same as what were in town yesterday, but no where near as crowded.

Next a few races to watch – billy cart races, ride on mower races, a stockyard show, and most entertaining was the wife carrying competition! The criteria was that wife had to weigh more than 49kgs, and the prize was the wife’s weight in xxxx products. There were a few falls, but all took it in the name of fun. I will add, we did not enter!

The other highlight was Isla and Frank having a camel ride – Isla said she wanted to ride the camel, but we weren’t sure whether she would actually do it! But she did, and loved it! And no fretting when the camel got up and down – I know from experience that can be a bit hairy!

The big event for the afternoon was the Rodeo. Roma Pro Rodeo is a highly recognised and rated Rodeo attracting the attention of International groups such as Teton Ridge who are the organisers of The All American Rodeo which is known as the only Million Dollar payout of rodeo events in the world. Great family event that always delivers the thrills,spills and courage that is professional bull riding.

We had chosen not to go to the night event starting at 8pm which was a concert by Troy Cassar-Daly and Wade Forster (only because we had seen them at Tamworth Country Music Festival 3 months earlier), however, we found that we got a very good free concert back at our caravan. We could hear it all as a clear as day. How good was that!

Day 18

Monday 21st April

Roma to Jondaryn

313 kms

16-27 degrees, some light rain, cloudy

Light rain drizzle greeted us when we woke. We packed up, and said goodbye to Chantelle, Simon and Isla, as this where we part ways. We were headed home, they had a few more days.

Coffee stop at Miles, and another one at Dalby, before we decided to stop for the day at Jondaryn Woolshed where there is a lovely rural caravan park. Plenty of large grassy sites, and we were able to leave the van hooked up. They had a fabulous Easter programme over the weekend – need to keep that in mind for another year.

We needed to get the van cleaned ready to put away in storage tomorrow, so that filled in a couple of hours doing that, but at least we had water and a nice sunny afternoon. Boring, but had to be done.

A quiet evening, enjoying the last of our country outback experience.

Day 19

Tuesday 22nd April

Jondaryn to Brisbane

175 kms

12-26 degrees, sunny

Last day. Packed up, with everything spick and span. We took the time to have a look at the Jondaryn Woolshed before we left. Lots of interesting information re the history of the shearing shed. Also a great venue for a wedding or other event.

On the road, taking the Toowoomba Bypass, past Gatton, and onto Salisbury to drop Lexie the Legend off. We had to play a game of dodge the truck once we came off the Bypass Road – not sure where they all came from. Or maybe, we had forgotten what traffic was like.

It has been a fabulous holiday, making wonderful memories, and even better sharing it with our loved ones

South East Australia January 2025

Day 1

Thursday 2nd January 2025

Brisbane to Bellingen

419 kms

Sunny, 19 -28 degrees

A new year, and some new places to explore. Heading south, it was a driving day today. Lucky we had some very picturesque countryside to enjoy – very green after all the recent rains. The M1 was a great road, only slow part was through Coff’s Harbour. Our overnight stay was at Bellingen, a very pretty little town. We stayed at the Showgrounds, a nice shady park with large sites, and within walking distance to town. We set up, then walked across the river into town.

An early night after all the organising to get away.

Day 2

Friday 3rd January 2025

Bellingen to Cessnock

394 kms

19-25 degrees, cloudy, light to heavy rain

Basically another driving day , along the M1 – great road. We had about an hour of heavy rain which made driving quite stressful, but all of a sudden it stopped.

We arrived at Cessnock early afternoon, again staying at the Showgrounds. We set up, then went to the Information Centre to work out a plan for our next couple of days. Also a grocery shop to stock up on food items.

Now we’re ready to start the holiday part of the trip.

Day 3

Saturday 4th January 2025

Cessnock

16- 31 degrees

A relaxing drive along the beautiful tree lined roads through the Pokolbin region brought us to the Hunter Valley Gardens and shopping precinct. We have been here a couple of times before and it’s always enjoyable. We decided not to go back into the main gardens as it was just so hot , and the middle of the day. The shops, a coffee, and a general wander around had up suffice.

Next a wine tasting at Vamps Wine Rooms, owned by fourth generation of the famous Hunter Valley family, Lisa McGuigan. Her philodophy of “ life’s too short not to drink great wines” sits well with me. She has some very interesting marketing and labelling, and the wines were very appealing. Wine tasting experiences can be booked in the Bondage or Chainmail rooms. Next minute, we were signed up as members.

Lunch followed at Blaxland Inn in the same precinct. A nice menu with accompanying local wines.

Next a drive to Broke, enjoying the gorgeous countryside, vineyards, alpaca farms and other local sites. Of note were Crepe Myrtles which were flowering vividly – all shades of puns and purples, and whites. Quite a showcase. A contrast to the Hunter Lavender Farm – the flowers were at the end of their season, but still a pretty scene with the hills in the background.

Back to Cessnock, and our van, where we enjoyed sundowners and the cool breeze , before our dinner.

Day 4

Sunday 5th January 2025

Cessnock

15-35 degrees

Out to explore before it got too hot. We drove to the little mural town of Kurri Kurri – not too much happening there on a Sunday morning. We walked up and down the Main Street admiring the murals, and their “Big Kookaburra”. A couple of beautifully restored pubs marked each end of the Main Street. It was too hot for a coffee – 30 degrees by 11am.

We were at a bit of a loss as to what to do – we didn’t really feel like visiting any wineries, and it was just so hot! We ended up going back to Cessnock where we checked out the local retail, and enjoyed the air conditioning.

Then back to the caravan, where we cranked up our aircon, had a late lunch and a restful afternoon. The heat outside was zapping of all energy.

5pm came and we decided to test the elements and venture out – a drink at Harrigan’s Irish Bar, and then a delicious 3 course meal at Elements, both venues at Polkobin. Compliments to the chef at Elements. We had a beautiful outlook watching the king parrots nesting in the tree, and the daylight saving is so nice – wish we had that.

The temperature finally started to drop when the sun went down at 9pm, so we enjoyed watching a movie back at our humble little abode.

Day 5

Monday 6th January

Arrived at Woodbine Caravan Park in Lakes Entrance at 4pm. Took us ages to park. If you like being sardine in a can, this is the park for you! Once settled, we went for a walk around the town – very much a holiday resort, no doubt full of Melbournites! A nice vibe however. Dinner in tonight.

Cessnock to Wollongong

259 kms

18 – 32 degrees, sunny

We awoke to the sounds of horses training on the track which was at the back of the Van. Up early to avoid the predicted 39 degrees (it got up to 40) temperature. Away by 9am, and already 26 degrees. Thank goodness for the aircon in the car!

Back onto the M1, down through Hornsby, through the new Sydney bypass tunnel, onto the new tollroad M7 which turned into M31 (Hume Highway) , then onto B69 to Campbelltown. We avoided the steep descent of Bulli Pass instead taking Mt Ousley Road – still steep, but no where near as bad.

We were welcomed into Wollongong by Councillor Martin – we checked in to the Dolphin Suite for 2 nights. Got a great park out of the front of his townhouse block.

Then out for an explore of Richard’s local area – we drove up Bulli Pass (so glad we didn’t drive down this road with the caravan on), to Sublime Point Lookout, and Bald Hill Lookout. Spectacular view of Sea Cliff Bridge and the coastline. Drove through suburbs of Stanwell Park, Scarborough, Thirroul, Corrimal, Russel Vale (where Richard lives), Bulli Beach, through to the bustling metropolis of Wollongong. Richard gave us a great tour with much information about new and planned developments.

Day 9

Back to Richard’s for drinks on the lanai, followed by the chef’s own green chicken curry. A very nice evening.

Day 6

Tuesday 7th January

Wollongong

17-20 degrees, cold and rainy

Well the cool change came in with a bang – cold and raining! Not the Queensland weather we know – where is beautiful one day, perfect the next!!!

Our first stop today was the Kiama Blowhole. I had seen it as a child, and also taken my children there. It probably didn’t have the same impact as either of those occasions, but the little boy we were standing next, to was certainly impressed.

Onto Berry, a charming village in the Shoalhaven region of the NSW South Coast. With a charming main street, sophisticated shopping, the lush landscape and an assortment of epicurean experiences, it’s easy to see why Berry is a popular escape for glamorous Sydneysiders.

After a coffee at the very popular bakery, we experienced a little of the retail therapy – there was a great homeware store, and a very interesting shoe shop. Lunch at the pub was very filling – the seafood chowder was delicious. Afterwards, Richard took us to the “ must go to “ Treats Store – it had every type of jam, chutney, sauce, chocolates and sweets you could think of, all made on site. Too many temptations.

Driving back to Richard’s place, we had a tour of the southern end the Illawarra region. It really is a lovely part of the world. The coast line is very pretty and very well utilised. Thankfully the rain had stopped.

Dinner was a takeaway Vietnamese stir fry tonight. Something light after our filling lunch.

Day 7

Wednesday 8th January

Wollongong to Eden

410 kms

16-21 degrees, cloudy

An hour’s drive to Nowra where we met up with Tony and Rosemary for morning tea – a nice catch up on all the family news.

A big driving day today-we continued on the Princess Highway to Mogo, where we stopped in this cute little village for lunch – the bakery was calling, and yummy home made meat pies were on the menu. Some nice arts and craft shops here.

We arrived in Eden at 5pm, and checked in at the Eden Gateway Caravan park – a nice drive through grassy site. Once set up, we decided we needed to stretch our legs and walk along boardwalk surrounding Lake Curalo – the salt marsh, eucalypt forest and grasslands are home to abundant birdlife. Very pretty.

Ate in for dinner tonight, chicken cooked on the Weber always goes down well.

Day 8

Thursday 9th January

Eden

17-23 degrees, sunny

A beautiful sunny day today. Our first point of call was the Killer Whale Museum. We had a really interesting talk on how during whaling times, the Killer whales helped the whalers by herding the humpbacks into Twofold Bay. Once they had been harpooned, the killer whales would eat the humpback’s tongues, and then leave the rest of the whale for the whalers to process for oil.

That filled in the morning. We stopped at the seafood Co- op for some fresh prawns and oysters – yummy! Due to Eden’s unique location a variety of seafood comes through the port. Fishermen come in with fresh fish, as well as abalone, lobster and urchin , which are sent off to Sydney Fish Markets or processed through the local facilities at Snug Cove.

Then a little exploration of the area surrounding Eden. North first, to Beowa National Park. It is home to the Pinnacles – a 65 million year old erosion feature. It’s only a 1 km walk to do the return trip. A goanna and water dragon were sighted on the path. Also stopped for views for views of the beautiful beaches that sit on the southern side of the Pambula Rivermouth.

We made a stop at Broadwater Oyster Farm enquiring about farm tours – unfortunately all booked out. Just had to try a few more oysters instead. These were divine, so creamy, better than those from the co-op.

Then we came back to Twofold Bay and walked along the beach to the Rockpool area – a popular spot at this time of year. A rogue wave caught us unawares.

A drive south took us to Boydtown and Beermuna Beach. This is the site where the incredible relationship between the beowa (orca) and the Thaua people first began, and many years later became the base of Ben Boyd’s empire. All that remains now is the Seahorse Inn, now lovingly restored historic hotel. We enjoyed a drink here looking out to the beach.

Our day had been well and truly filled in – you could easily spend another day here. For dinner tonight we walked to the Eden Sports Club for a nice meal.

Friday 10th January

Eden to Lakes Entrance

309 kms

19-22, raining, cloudy

A late minute cancellation, and we were on our way to the 9am Captain Sponge’s Magical Oyster Tour for 2 hours. Luckily the heavy rain that had started during the night, stopped for our tour. This on the water experience took us on a journey through the Pambula lake environment where we learnt about its geology, formation and also the cultural, natural and ecological significance of the estuary.

More importantly we learnt all about farming Sydney rock oysters using modern aquaculture techniques to produce a premium world renowned sustainable shellfish … which, of course, we got to try. Exquisite! So fresh! The information in oyster farming was fascinating. It takes 3-4 years to grow a Sydney rock oyster, allowing the oyster to develop rich and unique flavours that reflect the estuary. No two Sapphire Coast oysters taste the same. We also had a lesson in shucking!

It was very peaceful on the lake and the water was so pristine. Flathead and tailor could be seen swimming close to the surface. Saw several sea eagles and their nests in the trees.

A short drive back to Eden, where we hooked up the van, then made our way to Lakes Entrance. Uneventful drive, beautiful and green. Of note are the gorgeous flowering agapanthus at every turn. Drove past the turnoff to Mallacoota which was where the bushfires were in 2020. Hard to believe that could happen here. Late lunch stop at Cann River.

Day 10

Saturday 11th January

Lakes Entrance

19-27 degrees, sunny, windy

A relaxing morning – a couple of loads of washing, and a top up with the groceries. A nice lunch and an afternoon siesta… well, we are on holidays!

Then a walk- we started off to do the 5 km boardwalk around Lakes Entrance. Lakes Entrance is the gateway to the largest lake system in Australia. Four hundred square kilometres of lakes, rivers, creeks, bays and backwaters await exploration. We walked across the pedestrian bridge to Ninety Mile Beach, which stretches along the town’s Tasman Sea shoreline. Wildlife around the beach and lakes includes kangaroos, pelicans and dolphins. We passed the aqua park on the way – that looked a lot of fun for families. Actually Lakes Entrance seemed a very family friendly destination – 3 mini golf courses, an amusement park, an Aquadome , and lots of fishing and water sport activities.

Our walk was cut a little short as the sky turned very ominous looking. We walked back to the van, but the storm passed us by. A few drops was all we got in the end. Anyway we were back in time for wine o’clock, followed by a nice pulled pork for dinner. Life’s good.

Day 11

Sunday 12th January

Lakes Entrance

19-29 degrees, sunny, hot, afternoon storm

We went for a day drive to explore some of the nearby waterways in East Gippsland.

Metung was 30 minutes away – it is a small and stylish village located near the Gippsland Lakes and sandy beaches – a great base for water sports enthusiasts. We had a look at the Metung Hot Spring Resort – looks a great facility, but too hot today for us for a hot bath. We enjoyed a coffee watching the boats coming in and out. We spoke to one couple who had boated from Lakes Entrance to have a pie from the local bakery for lunch. As you do!

Paynesville is the region’s boating capital. Anglers, windsurfers, jet skiers, and water skiers flock to the town to take to the water. We thoroughly enjoyed our afternoon at this waterside village.

We stopped for lunch at the restaurant Pier 70 , right on the water, for grilled fish and vegetables. Delicious. Then we caught the car ferry, as pedestrians (which was free) over to Raymond Island, 200 m off the coast, across from the town of Paynesville. The island is named after William Odell Raymond, originally a magistrate from New South Wales who established himself as a squatter in Gippsland in the 1840s. Raymond Island is home to a large koala population. They were originally introduced to the island in 1953. We saw 4 koalas on the 2.2 km koala trail, and one kangaroo. Very enjoyable.

We made a hurried return to the car as the skies had changed – so sunny an hour before, to dark clouds and thunder! We are in Victoria! It poured all the way back to Lakes Entrance. Lucky for me, someone had very kindly taken my washing off the line ( I had decided it was sheet washing day)!

It continued to rain for the remainder of the evening, so we missed out on our daily daylight saving fix – watched some movies instead.

Day 12

Monday 13th January

Lakes Entrance to Albury

319kms

17-32 degrees, sunny

An easy get away from Lakes Entrance – luckily quite a few of the caravans around us had left the day before – otherwise it might not have so such a simple procedure!

We had decided to travel the Great Alpine Road through the High Country. The 339-kilometre adventure along Australia’s highest year-round accessible sealed road takes you right up close to Victoria’s diverse landscapes. We travelled through lofty mountain ranges, down plunging valleys, into lush forests, and past rolling vineyards along the way. The old tobacco farms have metamorphosed into vineyards, hops farms, nut groves, berry and kiwifruit farms, apple orchards and olives groves, while beef and dairy cattle remain a big part of the agriculture. The mountain views were breathtaking, and the scenery unforgettable.

We passed through the gorgeous towns of Omeo, Mt Hotham, Harrietville, Bright and Myrtleford. We definitely want to return to this part of Australia. The changing of the leaf colours in autumn would be spectacular to see.

We arrived in Albury, to find that we had a flat tyre on the caravan – we think we only just got it as we arrived ( no shredding or obvious damage). A call to NRMA, and it was changed an hour later.

Luckily it was so quick, as we had arranged to meet with friends with met in South Korea who live in Wodonga. They vey kindly picked us up and we had dinner at the Newmarket Hotel ( in Albury, as opposed to Brisbane). It was really lovely to catch up with them- ironically they were going to Brisbane the next day!

Day 13

Tuesday 14th January

Albury

20-35 degrees, sunny, hot

First job- drop off the flat tyre for repair. Lucky it was able to be fixed – a nail was responsible for the puncture.

Then a day exploring the area around Albury. You could easily spend a few days in this region. Beautiful back roads shaded by the trees bordering the road edges. Nice and green. The area is well know for its wineries – but too early and too hot for drinking wine ( in my opinion)!

Rutherglen was the first town we visited – a town from the gold rush era with a lovely street scape. We walked up and down, stopping for a coffee. A couple of nice boutiques and gift shops. I managed to find a nice pair of baroque pearl earrings – I had been looking for a pair for a while. Amazing what places you find these little treasures in!

19 kms from Rutherglen was the historic town of Chiltern, also famous from gold mining days. Gorgeous streetscape, all buildings well preserved, and with plaques denoting circa and original use.

Half an hour away was Beechworth – a picturesque township, filled with lush green trees, boutiques and renowned restaurants and cafes. Also a very interesting historical precinct. We did a short walking tour where we were given the history of bush ranger Ned Kelly and his mentor Harry Power. We then did the Court House tour where we heard about Ned Kelly’s trials, also those of his family. The furniture in the court room was original, dating from 1958. The sandstone buildings are beautifully preserved.

Of course Frank had to try a pie from the very famous Beechworth Bakery – it did not disappoint! We walked along the main street stopping at the honey showroom where of course we did some sampling. We left with a bottle of honey and ginger nectar.

20 kms to Yackandandah another pretty little town. It was very hot by this time , so we only did a drive through. All these towns are so gorgeous, as is the countryside. Continuing on, we drove through Wodonga, then across the Murray River to Albury.

It was 35 degrees but this time, so we cranked up the air conditioning in the van, enjoyed a cold refreshing sangria, before cooking a bbq dinner.

Day 14

15th January 2025

Albury to Canberra

341 kms

18-33 degrees

Packed up and ready to go by 9am. Because there was no one else in our little area, and there was bitumen and marked lies, we decided we’d spend half an hour practicing our reverse parks. And job well done.. .. even if I say so myself!

Exactly 4 hours later, travelling the Hume Highway, we arrived in Canberra. Staying at Alivio Caravan Park Resort in O’Connor – a bit more upmarket than the Showgrounds we have been frequenting! Also three times the price! All the van sites are drive through, so didn’t take us long to park and set up. We didn’t have to do one of our newly perfected reverse parks!

It was so hot – the first thing we did was go for a quick dip in the pool! Very refreshing!

Then out for a drive – a bit of a trip down memory lane for Frank. Got to see a couple of the houses where he had lived in another lifetime. Then the storm, not too severe, but the temperature dropped 12 degrees in an hour! Thank goodness!

Dinner out tonight – First Edition at Braddon. Very nice. Two courses , both large – we came home feeling totally satisfied. Down to 14 degrees overnight. It’s hard to keep up – aircon the previous two nights, almost needed the heater tonight!

Day 15

Thursday 16th January

Canberra

14-23 degrees, sunny , windy

So much to see and do in our nation’s capital city, and we only had a couple of days to do it in!

Surrounded by forest, farmland and nature reserves, Canberra earns its nickname, the “Bush Capital.” The city’s focal point is Lake Burley Griffin, which is filled with sailboats and kayaks. On the lakeshore is the massive, strikingly modern Parliament House, as well as museums including the National Gallery. From Parliament House the road goes to the Australian War Memorial. The roads are all very well laid out.

The Old Parliament House opened earlier than many of the other attractions so we started our day’s events there. Built in the middle of a sheep paddock that is now part of the Parliamentary Triangle, Old Parliament House was at the centre of Australian democracy during its formative years. Only ever intended as a ‘provisional’ parliament, Old Parliament House had to grow with the needs of Australia’s evolving democracy. From a modest initial staff of 300 people, it was accommodating over 3,000 people by the end of its life. Now it houses the Museum of Australian Democracy. The free 45-minute “Highlights of Old Parliament House” tour was fantastic. The guide was extremely professional, offering a wealth of knowledge about the nation’s political history and the important work of public servants. I felt proud to explore the building and learn about Australia’s political journey. We went into both the House of Representatives and Senate chambers. The stories shared during the tour were captivating, and I could easily spend half a day soaking in all the information. Down stairs, the exhibition, the Year in Political Cartoons 2024, was quite entertaining.

Next, the Australian War Memorial, which is a profound tribute to the sacrifices of Australian servicemen and women. It effectively combines a museum with a memorial, showcasing an extensive collection of artifacts and personal stories that illuminate Australia’s military history from World War I to the present.

The exhibits are thoughtfully curated, offering visitors a deep, emotional connection to the experiences of those who served. The architecture itself is impressive, creating a solemn yet reflective atmosphere. We did the 80 minute tour, again free, where the guide highlighted some of the powerful stories of was. We had both been here a couple of times previously, but will always respect how sacred this memorial is. The words at the entrance resonated with me.

MORE THAN 103,000 AUSTRALIAN

MEN AND WOMEN HAVE DIED IN WAR.

“Here is their spirit in the heart of the land they loved; and here we guard the record which they themselves made”

The War Memorial is undergoing renovation, due to be completed in 2028. We spent 4 hours there, and could easily have spent a lot longer.

A bit of culture for the afternoon, starting at the National Portrait Gallery. The gallery is more dedicated to post modernism – creative and modern paintings plus historical paintings and portraits. We didn’t see the ticketed show but enjoyed looking around the free entry section.

Across the road was the National Art Gallery, the national art museum of Australia, as well as one of the largest art museums in Australia, holding more than 166,000 works of art.

A range of significant pieces are on display including Sidney Nolan’s Ned Kelly series, and Blue Poles by Jackson Pollock, purchased with the Prime Minister’s approval in 1973 for the bargain price of $1.3M now worth a reputed $500M.

We enjoyed the current drop in exhibition of Ethel Carrick and Anne Dangar , two important but under acknowledged female artists – one a painter, one a ceramicist. At first glance the two women had little in common, however both had a strong connection with France; and they both were innovators and groundbreaking artists. In the case of Carrick, she brought post-impressionism to Australia, in the case of Dangar, she advocated for cubism.

We took a drive up to Black Mountain to the Telstra Tower – we both remembered the great view of Canberra you could get from the tower. Alas, the tower is now closed, Frank was so disappointed that the revolving restaurant is now closed as he had wanted to go there for dinner. It was hard to get any view from the car park. Such a shame the tower is no longer operational.

A very full day. A stop off to buy a few groceries on the way back to the caravan, cooked dinner, and an early night. Cool tonight, and the wind had certainly stepped up. I think we’ve had every season in the 36 hours we’ve been here.

Day 16

Friday 17th January

Canberra

11-23 degrees, sunny, windy

We put the awning down first thing- the wind was getting worse, and better not to be worried about it while we were out and about for the day.

So the new Parliament House today. This iconic building, known for its impressive architecture, is located on Capital Hill in Canberra. Members of parliament meet at Parliament House to represent the Australian people and make decisions for the nation. All parliamentary proceedings are open to visitors. Parliament House is a striking blend of modern design and rich history. Its unique architecture, with a grass-covered roof and towering flagpole, is breathtaking. Visitors can enjoy free guided tours, fascinating political exhibits, and an impressive art collection. One of the 4 original Magna Carta documents is on display. We entered the House of Representatives and Senate Chambers- here the red and green are a more Australiana shade of the colours. An impressive view all the way to the War Memorial.

Next the Canberra Glassworks which is housed in the old Powerhouse. It’s a space where creativity, artistry, and craftsmanship come together to produce truly stunning works of art. The dedication of the artists and the incredible talent on display make the visit inspiring. You can watch the glass blowing process from the viewing gallery. Great displays about glass as you walk through the workshop area. Glass making courses are available.

A little drive to see Government House, the official residence of the Governor-General, in Yarralumla. Built in the 1830s, a humble homestead, it became the most palatial homestead in the region, and now it is the residence of the Governor General of Australia. The 1035 hectares surrounding the house are beautifully manicured gardens and lawns.

Overlooking Lake Burley Griffin, the National Museum of Australia explores Australian history and culture through indigenous heritage, landscape, people and journeys that connect Australia with the world. There were two ticketed events on, but we found plenty to see with all the free exhibits. If anything I thought the displays were a bit disorganised in terms of sequencing, but still interesting.

Another huge day. I have to say I enjoyed my time in Canberra, could easily spend another couple of days here, so much to see, and so many free entries. I loved the trees and green spaces in the city. Shopping centres are hidden from the main roads.

Because we had enjoyed our dinner so much two nights earlier at First Edition, we had decided to go back there – as often happens it wasn’t as good, but possibly it could have been our choice of food.

Still windy.

Day 17

Saturday 18th January

Canberra to Wyee

381 kms

13-degrees, sunny, windy in Canberra, rain along the way

Leaving Canberra on the Federal Highway, we soon joined the Hume Highway, diverting briefly to the Old Hume Highway for a morning tea stop at Berrima. I managed to get in a browse of a couple of the little shops there – mind you, Frank was the purchaser here with a nice brown leather man bag!

Back to the Hume and then onto the new Toll Road, the M7. This joined the M2 and the new tunnel. This meant we could get from Campbelltown to Hornsby in 45 minutes, at a cost $75 in tolls. Worth it when you’re towing a caravan .

Onto the Pacific Highway, until we turned off for Wyee where we were staying for the night at the MMM Campground. Lovely grassy spot surrounded by trees, and grazing kangaroos. Little hiccup when we were parking the van – someone didn’t close one of the tool box doors. The end result – a bent door! Nothing a ratchet strap won’t fix temporarily. Just a nuisance. Those doors are a pain as they open downwards.

We had a couple of hours before the predicted rain started, so we had a drive of the surrounding area, stopping at Morriset and Toronto, nice little towns nestled against Lake Macquarie.

Quiet night in for us. Only a couple of short showers overnight. Hard to believe only 100 kms away, Maitland had flood warnings.

Day 18

Sunday 19th January

Wyee to Tamworth

17-27 degrees, cloudy, sunny

All going to plan… hooked up and on route to Tamworth. All of a sudden, there was a warning saying our front left tyre had low pressure. Guess what, we could see a nail in the tyre. Another flat! Another call to NRMA. We managed to get off the highway into Kurri Kurri – the mural town we had been to on our way south.

Sure enough we had the tyre changed within the hour – what a great service. I had organised coffees, and we were back on our way.

Arrived in Tamworth at 2pm as originally planned, so no time lost. We stayed at the North Tamworth Football Club on the ever so green Jack Wollaston oval. Such thick lush grass! Set up fairly quickly- what took the most time was hooking into the water pipe line that serviced about a dozen caravans. Instant camaraderie at the park!

We had tickets for Brad Butcher at the Services Club – great show. Alison Forbes and Tori Darke, joined him for a couple of songs during the night.

Day 19 – 22
Monday 20th – 23rdJanuary
Tamworth Country Music Festival
14- 36 degrees over the 4 days, sunny

Fabulous four days enjoying the Festival. Peel Street was a colourful lively place to explore when we had an hour or two to fill in in between shows. Some great talent busking , also some not so great! Ones we really enjoyed were Nicole Matthews, Diamonds and Rust, Simply West, Mack Geiger and Amy Vee. Americana in the Park, just off Peel Street, was a great night.

Ticketed events we attended were Troy Casser Daly, who had a stream of guests, namely Kasey Chambers, Laurel Edward and Adam Harvey. Also The Pleasures , who had a drag queen as their MC, and an interesting guest, Henry Wagon. Another great act was Jen Mize, Linc Phelps, and Kelly Bouhaha.

Of course we went to Uncle Bob’s Jug Band – such a colourful assortment of talented musicians who dress in singlets and thongs, who only get together at Tamworth. They are so much fun. Washboods, to guitars, a trombone, to a base string and bottle tops are played! We love them.

One morning we went to the Bush Poets, again great entertainment. Greg North was the standout poet.
A visit to the Australian Country Music Hall of Fame was very interesting – some great memorabilia on display.

Wet to two nice restaurants- Tamworth Vietnamese Restaurant which we went to last year – nice food, inexpensive, and the venue close to the park. The Deco Wine Bar in Peel Street was very nice, more fine dining – beautiful setting, and delicious food.

All in all, it was a wonderful time in Tamworth. We were also lucky enough to be there at the same time as our friends – Garry and Denise, Lynda and Ian, Charlie and Sue, and their friend Jeanne from Stanthorpe. It was great to share some of the experiences with them.

Names we need to look out for at our next visit are Brooke Taylor, Shane Nicholson ( Kasey Chambers ex husband ) , Felicity Urquhart, Wolfe Brothers, Ross Webb and the Rusted Track (does Luke Combs covers).

Day 23
Friday 24th January 2025
Tamworth to Stanthorpe
355 Kms
20-32 degrees

On the road again! Homeward bound! A straight forward drive, up over the Mooni Hills, stopped at the quaint town of Uralla for coffee. All going well until we came to the famous narrow bridge at Tenterfield, where our driver’s mirror clipped the same mirror of an oncoming caravan. So we were minus a mirror for the remainder of our trip- lucky we didn’t have far to go. Apparently that bridge is notorious for accidents, luckily we escaped with only a missing mirror. The passing vehicle didn’t even attempt to slow down.

So with another repair to add to our list, we found our way to Travis’ farm and set up home for the night. Travis and Louise and the kids, were actually in Brisbane so we had the whole farm to ourselves.

Day 24
Saturday 25th January 2025
Stanthorpe to Brisbane
220 kms
20-33 kms

Early get away as we had an appointment at Condamine Caravan Repairs in Warwick to get the caravan window replaced. But of course, in the usual style influenced by the Aldred Factor, they had received the incorrect part. Another wait! However Jason did repair the leaking tap to the water tank, so our visit was not in vain.

So over Cunningham’s Gap we went, and we were in Brisbane before we knew it. Another great holiday – the few little challenges we had along the way had not dampened our love of being on the road in the caravan.

Total kms travelled : 4864 kms

Total fuel cost: $2566.84

Total accommodation cost: $1168 ( with the bulk being Canberra, Tamworth and Lakes Entrance )

We had tickets for Brad Butcher at the Services Club – great show. Alison Forbes and Tori Darke, joined him for a couple of songs during the night.

Day 19 – 22
Monday 20th – 23rdJanuary
Tamworth Country Music Festival
14- 36 degrees over the 4 days, sunny

Day 23
Friday 24th January 2025
Tamworth to Stanthorpe
355 Kms
20-32 degrees

Day 24
Saturday 25th January 2025
Stanthorpe to Brisbane
220 kms
20-33 kms

Total kms travelled : 4864 kms

Total fuel cost: $2566.84

Total accommodation cost: $1168 ( with the bulk being Canberra, Tamworth and Lakes Entrance )

We had tickets for Brad Butcher at the Services Club – great show. Alison Forbes and Tori Darke, joined him for a couple of songs during the night.

Day 19 – 22

Monday 20th – 23rdJanuary

Tamworth Country Music Festival

14- 36 degrees over the 4 days, sunny

One morning we went to the Bush Poets, again great entertainment. Greg North was the standout poet.

A visit to the Australian Country Music Hall of Fame was very interesting – some great memorabilia on display.

Day 23

Friday 24th January 2025

Tamworth to Stanthorpe

355 Kms

20-32 degrees

Day 24

Saturday 25th January 2025

Stanthorpe to Brisbane

220 kms

20-33 kms

Total kms travelled : 4864 kms

Total fuel cost: $2566.84

Total accommodation cost: $1168 ( with the bulk being Canberra, Tamworth and Lakes Entrance )

Savannahlander July 2024

Day 1

Wednesday 3rd July 2024

Cairns to Chilagoe

18-28 degrees

6.30am departure from Cairns Central Station on the Savannahlander.

We headed up the steep mountain range, enjoying the lush rainforest. There was notable damage along the rivers caused from Cyclone Jasper and the rain event that followed last December. We drove through Stony Creek Gorge and enjoyed the Stony Creek Falls, Barron Gorge and Barron Falls, a coffee stop at Kuranda, through Mareeba and Mutchilba, another coffee stop at Dimbulah, ending up at Almaden for a late lunch.

From Kuranda we passed through numerous mango farms, citrus orchards, coffee plantations, sugar cane farms, grass pastures (for animal feed) and vineyards – many years ago this farmland was used for tobacco. Dairy farms transitioned into large Brahman stations. Also saw some Texan Long Horn cattle – they very appropriately had long horns!

Lunch stop at Almaden Hotel, which is also where we disembarked the train for today. Basic lunch at the hotel – tomato soup and sandwiches.

From Almaden we drove 20 minutes on a mini bus to Chilagoe Eco Lodge, where we checked into our rooms. Basic accommodation in a bush setting.

Once we had settled in, it was onto the bus and a short drive to the Chilagoe Caves. Here we did a tour of the limestone caves which interestingly are above the ground – there are 600 caves in the area. This one, Royal Arch covers 3 kms. Many limestone formations inside the cave as well as the resident bat colonies. Nice and cool inside at 23 degrees, which is what it sits at all year round. The water level had risen to 1.5 metres inside with the heavy wet season after Cyclone Jasper.

More Chilagoe sights – the miner’s village, the old smelter works, and slag heap. Between 1901 and 1943, the Chillagoe Smelters treated 1,250,000 tons of ore producing copper, lead, silver and gold. Marble is mined here now- great blocks of marble are cut and brought up from under the ground.

Chilagoe once had a population of 10,000 – now 260 people live here.

We visited the weir which was like a little green oasis in the middle of nowhere. Our host said he swims there all year round – alongside the freshwater crocs!

Dinner was a bbq and salad, plus a chance to meet some of our fellow train travellers. Early to bed to catch up on some sleep after our early start.

Day 2

Thursday 4th July 2024

Chilagoe to Cobbold Gorge

18 – 29 degrees

Early breakfast, then the 20 minute bus back to Almaden. Back on the Savannahlander and a prompt departure at 8am.

The scenery today was predominantly Savannah lands – grasslands, trees and rocky outcrops, with a few creek and river crossings. It was still looking quite green after the long wet season. Apparently it is usually very dry looking by this time of the year. One crocodile was perched on a rock in one river, otherwise the only other wildlife we saw were wallabies and Brahman cattle – all looking in very good condition. The train often had to slow down so the cattle could get across – probably a good idea not to hit one of them. I think I know who would come off second best! Lots of termites mounds- our driver Will gave us a very informative talk about termites. There is nothing we don’t know about termites!

As there is no where to stop for coffee between Almaden and Mt Surprise, we had a stop on the tracks and Will and Joe (our train drivers) presented us with a hot cuppa and morning tea.

Another couple of hours and we arrived at Mt Surprise where we had lunch at Discovery Parks Caravan Park – ham and salad wraps and fruit.

Back on the train for another hour. We disembarked at Einasleigh. From here it was a two hour bus trip to Cobbold where we were staying at the Cobbold Village Resort – it had proved to be quite a long travelling day.

Now they had told us the resort was spectacular, and so it was! A resort in the middle of an oasis on the banks of the Robertson River. There was an infinity pool and swim up bar. Beautiful shady trees graced the perimeter of the restaurant dining deck area. A fire pit with seating sat below the deck on the river’s edge. Everything was lovely and green

But we were off for a tour – of Cobbold Gorge. A four wheel drive truck took us to the gorge (just a few kms from the resort), where we got onto small electric boats and travelled the 800 metres of the Gorge. It truly was a breathtaking natural wonder. A hidden oasis tucked away within the rugged sandstone formations of North Queensland.

The boats are quietly motored so as not to disturb the gentle serenity of the natural ecosystems it passes.They glide across the surface mirroring the eerie silence of the Cobbold Gorge itself. A special and serene wonder.

In parts the gorge was only 2 metres wide. The height was up to 30 metres in parts. In the wet, the waters rise 6-10 metres in a few hours and goes down just as quickly. There was a glass walking bridge across the top at the narrow point.

Back to the resort to enjoy a stunning sunset before dinner. A very nice two course al la carte meal at the restaurant, sitting on the deck overlooking the water.

Day 3

Friday 5th July 2024

Cobbold Gorge to Mt Surprise

17- 27 degrees

Yummy buffet breakfast today, enjoying the sunrise. We were joined by a flock of Apostle birds who were very keen to find any scraps.

From here it was a bus ride back to Forsayth, and then onto Einasleigh. Time to walk down and look at Copperfield Gorge – no where near as spectacular as Cobbold Gorge, but still worth seeing. It had been formed on basaltic rocks and much more open.

Lunch at The Pub at Einasleigh – some nice fresh ham and salad wraps. Then back to the train for a 1 1/2 ride to Mt Surprise. We did stop for a photo opportunity of the Savanahlander going over Lighthouse Creek.

Mt Surprise is another small pioneer town with a population of approximately 60 in the off season. Checked into the Discovery Parks cabins,then straight out for our afternoon tour of the Undarra Lava Tubes. Mar, our guide, had plenty of jokes for us on our 40 minute trip to the National Park.

The lava tubes were really interesting – this complex and awe-inspiring lava tube system in the Undara basalt flow formed after a volcanic eruption around 190,000 years ago. It’s one of Australia’s greatest – yet lesser known – geological wonders.

‘Undara’, an Aboriginal word meaning ‘long way’, perfectly describes this unique geographical feature which Sir David Attenborough described as one of the most “unexplored geological features of the earth”. He declared that Undara should be the eighth Wonder of the World.

Many of the tubes (or ‘caves’) now act as storm drains, collecting rain water and as a result, ribbons of green dense shrubbery, or ‘thicket’, have grown inside them, adding to the naturally photogenic appeal of the Undara Lava tubes.

We found the lava tubes really interesting. Stopped at the resort for a little look – it looked amazing! Accommodation was a series of rail carriages that had been brought on, and the restaurant/bar area was made to look like a station set in a lovely green setting. We wished we were staying there!

Back to Mt Surprise, enjoying the fiery sunset on the drive back. Dinner was at the Discovery Park – alternate drop of barramundi and lasagne. We enjoyed a few wines chatting to our fellow travellers before heading to bed.

Day 4

Saturday 6th July 2024

Mt Surprise to Cairns

18-23 degrees, showers in Cairns, humid

Big travel day to day. After breakfast, we boarded the Savannahlander which departed promptly at 8am. We drove straight through to Almaden where we had an early lunch, back at the Railway Hotel. It was a very nice spread- bbq and salads, as well as cold meats, also meatballs and pasta. They really turned it on.

Back on the train at midday, next stop Dimbulah for afternoon tea, then another short stop at Barron Falls, before getting into Cairns at 6.30pm. It had been a long travel day, but plenty of nice scenery along the way. Wil and Joe had kept us entertained with their stories for most of the day.

Totally recommend the trip.

New South Wales, Victoria and South Australia trip 2024

Day 1

Thursday 28th March 2024

Brisbane to Stanthorpe

Big day – packing, picking up the van, sorting out the ball weight – and finally on the road. Once out of Brisbane, the traffic was minimal- it was the opposite on the coast roads. Typical Easter Thursday traffic.

Nice night in Stanthorpe- it’s always lovely to see the family. The kids were both excited to be on school holidays. Jackson had a little drama just before dinner – slipped on the bath mat, hit the wall, and the next minute had blood pouring from his nose. Lucky he didn’t break it.

We appreciated the cool change – a pleasant 15 degrees overnight.

Day 2

Friday 29th March 2024 (Good Friday)

Stanthorpe to Lightning Ridge

14 degrees in Stanthorpe, to a very hot 31 degrees in Lightning Ridge

496 kilometres

We’d left the van hooked up ready for a quick getaway. It was going to be a long day.

Stanthorpe to Yelarbon for a a Quick Look at the silo art which we have seen before, onto Inglewood, then Inglewood to Goondiwindi where we filled up with fuel. That proved interesting. The BP only had high flow diesel in the easy to drive through bays ( those nozzles are too big for our Jeep), and the bays for the other diesel were not easily accessed with a caravan in tow. Lucky we did a walk through before driving in, otherwise we would have quite literally been stuck! Shell to the rescue.

Goondiwindi to Mungindi, with a nice lunch stop alongside the Barwon River. I drove this leg – roads here were good, only passed three cars!

Mungindi to Lightning Ridge – this is where we went wrong. Of this 148 kms stretch, we did 100 kms on rough dirt roads! Someone picked the wrong road! We picked the shortest route, the bitumen road was 28 kms longer. I will be fair and mention there was no dirt road markings on either map we were following.

We made it to Lightning Ridge Holiday Park by 4.30pm. Once unhitched, our first job was to hose down the caravan- it was covered with mud and dirt. Never again is this van going on a dirt road!

A unique and historic opal mining town in Outback NSW, Lightning Ridge is famed for its rare black opal, mining history and colourful locals.

The Black Opal Bull and Bronc Ride kicked off the 2024 Easter Festival. There were some exceptional rides by both junior and experienced riders. There was also a lot of dust!! Plenty of food vans (we had some delicious smoked meat), some great entertainment including a band plus the mechanical bull ride, made for a fun night for all the locals and tourists.

Day 3

Saturday 30th March 2024

Lightning Ridge

20-32 degrees, very hot ++

Our caravan park was only a block away from the Main Street and event area for the Easter Festival. The town was buzzing! Market stalls lined the street, they included many locals selling their opals. Many street games and races were being run, as well as the Big Dig – a lucky draw where 10 opals were hidden in 10 dirt piles. If your number came up you then had to dig through the pile and locate a tin containing an opal. Ten lucky winners, but not us! Secretly I was happy, I was not going to be digging through any dirt, in the sweltering heat!

We walked around the town, found the IGA and hardware store. It was so hot- we indulged in an icy mango frappe. So refreshing!

The John Murray Art Gallery is the exclusive outlet for original John Murray paintings. One of the outback’s favourite painters, we viewed his brilliant landscapes and characters first hand. Loved his artwork which is also evident on many of the town murals.

Also took a look at Cooper’s Cottage, an original miner’s home, plus the Bottle House – the house made of beer bottles. Both had been around for a long time – evident by the dust!

The afternoon’s event was the Horse Races. We were planning to go, but it was just so hot! We ended up going back to the van to cool off in the air conditioning. We did walk down at the end of the afternoon to have a look. Everyone was dressed up for the occasion (except us!)- they all looked like they had had a lot of fun.

There are a series of “car door” drives you can do in the areas surrounding Lightning Ridge. We decided to do the Yellow Car Door tour…. and you guessed it, the signs were on painted yellow car doors! This route took in sites such as stone miner’s cottages, abandoned mine shafts, abandoned vehicles, the excavated site for the Australian Opal Centre, regenerated opal fields, and ending up at Lunatic Hill, a long abandoned open cut mine.

Next we did the Green Car Door route … yes green doors this time! More mine shafts and dirt piles, then ending up at Nettleton’s First Shaft Lookout. There we saw the Beer Can House (yes a hut made out of beer cans), and the Stone Labyrinth – where we watched the sunset over the Corcoran Opal Fields.

Back to town in time for the Easter Festival fireworks display.

Day 4

Sunday 31st March 2024 (Easter Sunday)

Lightning Ridge

20-33 degrees, hot ++

Today we had a tour with Outback Opal Tours – we could sit back and let someone else’s vehicle get dirty and dusty on the unsealed roads and dirt tracks! The Opal Fields are 80 kms from Lightning Ridge, with plenty of farming country to see on our way – mainly goat farms ( 90% of which is exported). Also saw a few wild emus. As we drove along we heard many colourful stories and entertaining history about the area from our driver Peter- there was not much he hadn’t seen or done!

Our first stop was Sheepyard Inn where we had a yummy Devonshire tea – the freshly made scones with jam and cream were delicious!

The surrounding area had a plethora of mining machinery, camps, mullock heaps, and opal mining claims. Opal mining is a way of life. I would go mad with the dust and dirt, but others love it. Everywhere you look is a piece of old machinery, or a sign – all of a humorous nature. We were able to have a quick fossick – looking for that elusive opal!

Lightning Ridge is famous for black opal. Black Opal is the most rare and valuable opal type. The dark body of black opal gives it a rich intense colour. Black opal is worth more than diamonds apparently, but not pink diamonds.

Next stop was the Sheepyard and Community War Memorial and Museum at Lake Beard – fabulous collection of war artifacts, all maintained by volunteers.

Glengarry Hilton was our lunch stop. Another outback pub with so much character. Over the way was Sweeney’s Art and Craft store with all sorts of goodies made by locals.

On the road again, until we reached The Club in the Scrub – another outback pub. Today, being Easter Sunday, was when the annual Yabby Races are held. This proved to be a very entertaining event – once you bought a yabby, it went into a central starting position, and the race was on to see which yabby crossed the outer ring first. A very lively audience cheered on the yabbies – large wagers had been placed so there was a keen interest in backing a winner. Next to the club is the Grawin Golf Club. Tee off is from the back of a truck!

Back in town we met Peter Cooke, of Outback Opal Hunter fame, who is building a mini golf course. He has collected all sorts of paraphernalia to create fun and quirky sculptures to make the course interesting. So far he has only two holes completed, but it will be great when it’s all done.

Also had a look in one of the many Opal shops in town. Black opal is the most rare and valuable Opal type. The dark body tone of black opal gives it rich intense colour. We learnt the difference between solid Opal, Opal doublet, Opal triplet and potch.

The water at Lightning Ridge comes from the Great Artesian Basin and is approximately two million years old!

Natural pressure sends the water to the surface through an artesian bore and it maintains a temperature of between 40 to 50 degrees Celsius. A lot has been done in recent years such as bore capping, and having pipes instead of open drains to minimise water loss. There is no shortage of water in Lightning Ridge.

The Lightning Ridge Bore Baths are free to use. Even though it was very hot outside, we enjoyed a short plunge in the naturally heated 40 degree bore bath. It was surprisingly refreshing – such a contrast from our recent Japanese onsen experience in very cold conditions. The bore water is very soft – a few extra rinses required when hair washing!

It had been a big day, and we had been eating a good part of it, so some nice truffle salami, vintage cheese and biscuits, with a nice bottle of red, in our air conditioned comfort, sufficed for dinner.

Day 5

Monday 1st April 2024

Lightning Ridge to Dubbo

21 – 31 degrees, still hot

356 kms

Packed up, and on our way – definitely no dirt roads! Though the roads are quite undulating… in other words, rough and bumpy! Lots of farmland – sheep, cattle and some horse studs. The country is nice and green after all the recent rain.

Coffee stop at Walgett. The water tower here was painted in 2020 by Jenny McCracken and Frank Wright. The mural depicts the life of Jimmy Little, a celebrated and beloved Australian Aboriginal musician, actor and advocate whose career spanned six decades.

Next stop, the water tower at Coonamble. Painted by John Murray and Sooty Welsh, this piece of work was done in 2017. The artwork features Galahs, fence posts to signify the rural aspect of Coonamble, plus the sun, moon and the Southern Cross.

We ended up continuing onto Dubbo, and checked into the Dubbo Discovery Park, which we had previously booked. All we could get at the time was an ensuite site. Sounds good, but all these sites had terrible access. We reversed onto our allocated site, only to find the drainage pit was in the middle of where our awning would be positioned. The slabs were all very odd also. We moved to another site, which because of the steep kerb, and very limited turning room, took us a long time to get into position. Tempers were short by the end, but nothing like some nice barbequed lamb chops with a full bodied Cabernet Sauvignon to smooth everything over.

Day 6

Tuesday 2nd April 2024

Dubbo

11-25 degrees , a very wet morning, then sunny

We had been dodging the wet weather events that had been happening all around us, but the rain finally caught up with us this morning. It poured down for 4 hours, then stopped! We needed to shop so we bought our groceries, and did the obligatory trip to Bunnings, had lunch and by that time, the sun was out.

So we were off to the Dubbo Zoo. We had a two day entry pass. We had planned to go on our bikes, but because of the wet terrain we drove to the park and walked around. You can also drive, ride or walk.

Taronga Western Plains Zoo, formerly known as Western Plains Zoo and commonly known as Dubbo Zoo, provides more living and breeding space for large animals such as elephants and antelopes which needed more space than was available at the restricted Sydney site. The zoo is an open-range design, with walls and fences replaced by concealed moats which divide the animals from the visitors. This creates the impression of actually being with the animals in the wild.

We had a wonderful three hours enjoying the animals. I think the earlier rain had deterred a lot of people from visiting , so there was no crowd – it was brilliant.

We treated ourselves to dinner at the Dubbo Club, which being next door to the caravan park, we could walk to. Nice food, and the dinner was very reasonably priced.

Day 7

Wednesday 3rd April 2024

Dubbo

14 – 25 degrees, sunny

Back to the zoo, this time we rode to the zoo from the caravan park, then continued riding around the park. We were in time for the giraffe feeding – those eyelashes are amazing! The Sumatran tiger interactive talk was also fantastic.

I was fascinated with the Bongo – an animal I’d never hear of before. The bongo is a large, mostly nocturnal, forest-dwelling antelope, native to sub-Saharan Africa. Bongos are characterised by a striking reddish-brown coat, black and white markings, white-yellow stripes, and long slightly spiralled horns. It was a beautiful beast.

Even though we have seen a lot of these animals in the wild, it was really interesting to hear about the conservation programmes, and a nice reminder to avoid using commercial palm oil. So many animals are endangered because of deforestation.

I felt the enclosures were all well spaced and maintained to a very high standard. All the animals were in excellent condition.

We thoroughly enjoyed our time at the zoo.

Day 8

Thursday 4th April 2024

Dubbo to Leeton

14 – 26 degrees, cloudy

388 kms

Packed up with minimal of fuss. The worst part was trying to line up the car with the hitch – small space and the steep kerb… grrrr! We then took advantage of using the car wash bay at the caravan park to wash the last of the mud of the bottom off the van. Job done!

We drove through Parkes and onto Forbes for our coffee stop. These roads were familiar after only being here three months earlier. At Forbes, we crossed the Lachlan River and headed onto West Wyalong where we had our lunch stop at one of the rest stops. An 88 year old local man on his electric bike stopped for a chat – he was lovely. Told us his how to get Weethalle to look at the silo art. I always find the local country people are generally very friendly.

The Weethalle silos were painted by Melbourne based artist Heesco Khosnaran. The large scale mural is a tribute to the rich agricultural heritage of the small community of Weethalle and the surrounding Bland Shire Communities. They portray a shearer, a grain farmer and a small flock of sheep perched high on a balcony keeping a watchful eye over the land.

Onto Leeton, driving through typical sheep and wheat farming land. We checked into the Leeton Showgrounds for the next two nights. An easy set up, plenty of space.

Off for a bike ride to explore the lovely little town. The town still has an incredible collection of well-preserved art deco buildings, not in the least the legendary Roxy Theatre, which has been operating as a cinema since 1930. Noted architect Walter Burley Griffin may be best known for designing Canberra, but he spread his wings to Leeton (and other areas) , which he designed in the early 20th century as part of the Murrumbidgee Irrigation Scheme.

We had a lovely ride around looking at the Roxy Theatre (which is currently undergoing extensive renovations), the many art deco shop fronts, the Hydro Hotel, and the water towers, which also have an art deco touch. There is an annual art deco festival in the middle of the year- I think we might have to return!

Rode home to find Frank had a flat tyre! A job for another day. Then the wind came up, so we had to batten down the hatches!

Day 9

Friday 5th April 2024

Leeton

15-19 degrees, started riding at 5am and didn’t stop all day

The information centre was our first stop. The lovely lady there armed us with information as to what to see and do in the Leeton area. Unfortunately the rain event that had been hammering down on the east coast of Australia had caught up with us. We were only on the edge of it, but nonetheless it rained all day, and was quite cool.

Leeton is one of Australia’s richest agricultural areas- it is known as the Rice Capital. As well as rice, the Leeton Shire also possesses numerous citrus, cotton, grape, walnut and wheat farms.

We drove to Whitton to Southern Cotton Gin, where we did a tour. It was quiet in the gin as the harvest doesn’t start until the end of April. It was very interesting seeing how cotton goes from field to fibre. The genetically modified seeds come from American. After the ginning process is completed, there is only 5% waste, which is then composted.

The Whitton Malt House is next door. Here you can enjoy Riverina produce, craft beers, Australian made whiskey and gins. Of course we felt obliged to do a tasting – we chose the gin tasting paddle. Some very nice gins – we like the Farmer’s Wife Autumn Dry gin the best. Beautiful gardens surround the grand building.

Drove past a water tower in Whitton, and some other art work. The museum was closed.

Back to Leeton, where we spent some time in the Leeton Museum – some good information about the Murrumbidgee Irrigation Scheme, and also history on the Letona Cannery (which I’m sure I went to as a child).

By 4pm, we decided we’d enough of the rain, so went back to our cosy caravan to warm up, and had a quiet afternoon/evening, catching up on some reading and tv viewing. Rain rain go away.

Day 10

Saturday 6th April 2024

Leeton to Echuca

14-22 degrees, cloudy to sunny

400 kms, approximately- did some detouring

And just like that, at 4am, the rain stopped, finally! It had been constant until then. On our way, and our first stop was the Narrandera water tower. The theme for the Narrandera Water Tower Art comes from the team of Apparition Media spending time chatting with the community and the inspired work of Narrandera artist and Wiradjuri man, Owen Lyons whose artwork inspired the symbolic concepts for the mural. The stories behind the designs include significant icons for the Narrandera Shire Council.

We stopped at the Visitor Centre to see the giant guitar. Narrandera’s Big Playable Guitar is the biggest playable guitar in Australia. The guitar was built in 1988 by Narrandera expatriate, Robert Palmer, to help promote the Country Music Club of Narrandera.

Next door was a display with a flight capable Tiger Moth and a collection of photos and memorabilia. During World War 1, the No. 8 Elementary Flight Training School was established on the site of the present airport at Narrandera. The Tiger Moth was the plane of choice in which 3,818 young men were trained in the elementary stages of flying.

We crossed the Murrumbidgee River and took a little detour to Lockhart to see the impressive Water Tower Mural there. The mural depicts a cascading waterfall surrounded by fauna and flora native to the local landscape, reflecting the importance of one of Australia’s most vital assets – water. The artwork was designed by talented Blue Mountain artists, Scott Nagy and Krimsone (Janne Birkner).

Another little detour, this time to the Milbrulong Water Tower Mural and Rosella Walk. This is a community area highlighting art, nature and heritage. The Mural of the Eastern Rosellas “nattering” away with each other was also designed by Scott Nagy and Krimsone (Janne Birkner).

Back to Lockhart for a coffee stop. Not a lot happening here – there were a lot of closed shops, but there were about 4 second hand stores that were open. Very quiet town.

Back on track, stopping at Jerilderie for lunch, a beautiful park beside the lake. There is a Ned Kelly Raid Trail there – we looked at some of the sites. I find these little towns talk up their tourist attractions quite a lot! I wouldn’t go out of my way….

Deniliquin was the next town on our route, over the Edward River, onto Moama, across the Murray River, finishing our day at Echuca. The Echuca Holiday Park where we were staying is right on the Murray.

Once we set up, we had a little drive around Echuca familiarising ourselves with the area, and also working out times for the paddle steamer ride in the morning.

Frank changed his bicycle tube – turns out it was a thorn that caused the puncture! Onto dinner – yummy bbq lamb – and of course another bottle of red to compliment it. Life is good!

Day 11

Sunday 7th April 2024

Echuca

13-23 degrees, cloudy and sunny

The Port of Echuca is a living monument to the 1870s and the boom of the riverboat trade. The riverboat trade exploded in the 1860s, and by 1872 the Port of Echuca was clearing 240 boats annually. Echuca was the third largest port in the country, outside Melbourne and Sydney, and the main ship building centre for the river transport industry.

At its peak, the 1865 wharf was over 300m long and supported eight red gum saw mills – it’s only a fifth of that size now. It was made famous in the TV series “All the Rivers Run” (Sigrid Thornton and Bryan Brown).

Today, the wharf is a place where you can learn about the early pioneering days at the Discovery Centre. You can view steam-powered exhibits, take a paddlesteamer cruise, and visit the surrounding historic shopfronts, pubs and cafes. It’s a busy little centre.

After spending some time in the Discovery Centre we did the cruise on the historic PS Pevensey on the Murray River. It was very peaceful on the river – huge red river gum trees line the river banks, flood heights were visible, people were paddling canoes, others were in luxury houseboats.

Once we disembarked, we explored some of the shops, and had a wine tasting at St Anne’s winery- found a very nice sparkling Shiraz, which I just had to purchase!

Back to our van which was only a ten minute walk, picked up our bikes, and went out for an explore of the local area. I’m very happy with my new electric bike – it sure takes me further than I would have gone on my old bike. However, when we got back I found I had a puncture – another thorn! Those thorns are deadly!

Another BBQ tonight – we had planned to go out for dinner, but all the restaurants we were interested in, were closed being a Sunday night.

Day 12

Monday 8th April 2024

Echuca to Ballarat

12 – 16 degrees

Heading to Ballarat today.

First stop was Rochester to see the silo art. Jimmy Dvate, one of Australia’s most well known mural artists was chosen to paint the GrainCorp Silos at Rochester. Jimmy chose to showcase an endemically threatened species, the large Duck-Billed Platypus, as well as the Squirrel Glider and Azure Kingfisher.

From Rochester we went onto Bendigo. Here we had a very nice stopover at the Bendigo Tramways. We were initially getting a coffee, but before we knew it, we were exploring Bendigo on the Vintage Talking Tram. It was fabulous. This one-hour tour of Bendigo allowed us to get our bearings, learn about the city’s golden heritage, and see all the historic landmarks and monuments along the way – Deborah’s Gold Mine, the Joss House, the cathedral etc. We disembarked at Charing Cross (city centre), had a yummy green chicken curry at a local Thai restaurant, and walked back to the Tramway Museum admiring all the gorgeous renovated worker’s cottages along the way. Great way to see Bendigo in a couple of hours.

Next door to the Tramways was Bendigo Woollen Mill – I just had to make a stop there – in fact I remember going there 30 years ago. This time I purchased – wool to make a shawl. Don’t hold your breath for the finished product!

We continued onto Ballarat… the gps took us down some very narrow, bumpy backroads – not the best road to be towing a caravan on. However we did see some very pretty towns, especially as the leaves on the trees are changing – all those glorious tonings!

Eventually we did get to our destination – Shady Acres Caravan Park- a nice little park on the outskirts of Ballarat. And wouldn’t you know it… the rain started soon after we arrived! We managed to get set up without getting too wet, then headed into town to get a few supplies. Good old Aldi to the rescue!

Back to the van to cook dinner, and put the heater on. The temperature dropped dramatically overnight… yes we’re in Victoria!

Day 13

Tuesday 9th April 2024

Ballarat

5-12 degrees, very cold!

The rain has stopped… but very cool this morning! Not that we are too bothered by it… it’s very warm inside our little home – with the heater on!

Had a few domestic duties first – washing for me, repairing tyre punctures for Frank.

Thought we’d head to the Information Centre first- they are always so friendly and helpful at these centres. Armed with a bundle of maps and brochures we decided to tackle local Ballarat today.

A self guided walk around the city centre was very interesting. From 1851 the world’s adventurers, non-conformists and fortune hunters flocked to Ballarat’s goldfields, and along with banks and governments, many sunk their fortunes into the streetscape. Within 10 years, Ballarat boasted the colony’s finest collection of buildings. Today, the bluestone and handmade brick structures are still as relevant and treasured as ever. They’ve been reinvented as wine bars and theatres, galleries and bustling cafes, making Ballarat an intriguing mix of old and new.

Next a drive to Lake Wendouree where we had lunch at the Yacht Club – it was very nice sitting on the waterfront enjoying the many activities going on around us. Even though it was only 10 degrees, people were out in their kayaks and paddle boats. Abundant birdlife on the water and water’s edge – corellas, ducks and lots of black swans grazing at the foreshore.

The Ballarat Tramway Museum was only a few minutes away from the Yacht Club. Here we could view seven historic trams, including the 1887 Horse Tram No 1 Tram, and an original Geelong Tram. The trams restored were beautifully done. There are more to be restored – and all are done by volunteers. What a great hobby for those enthusiasts. One volunteer we spoke to commutes from Melbourne weekly to pursue his interest. Lots of memorabilia and photos from days gone past.

We went for a 20 minute ride on a 100-year-old vintage tram along the western shores of Lake Wendouree, travelling through the beautiful Ballarat Botanical Gardens. I took photos of the flower clock and hothouses I remember visiting as a child, and again 20 years ago. The flowers in the gardens were stunning.

Next was the Eureka Centre is located at the Eureka Stockade Memorial Park, considered to be the site of the 1854 Eureka Stockade where the rebellion took place. It is home to one of Australia’s most compelling historic artefacts – the Eureka Flag. It was a great display to explore the social history and cultural impact of the Victorian gold rush, and honour the stories of the men and women who risked their lives in the ﬁght for miners’ rights.

The many layers of Eureka commemoration are reflected throughout the Memorial park in its significant trees, interpretive plaques and monuments that honour those involved in Eureka Stockade.

That filled the day for us. Back to the caravan for an easy dinner, and to warm up – the maximum temperature today was 12 (felt like 9). Meanwhile back home the minimum was 14 – we had been warned that Ballarat was a cold place – they were not wrong !

Day 14

Wednesday 10th April 2024

Ballarat to Melbourne to Ballarat

5 – 18 degrees.

Up early to catch the 7.45am train to Melbourne – we had a full day planned there. We originally had planned to drive, but the train was recommended- and at only $5.30 each for the return trip, it was well worth it. A very comfortable ride through scenic countryside for 80 minutes was very relaxing. They even had free undercover parking at the station.

Breakfast at Mr Carpano’s at the Novotel South Wharf set us in good stead for our big day out!

Our first activity was the BBC Earth Experience at the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre. Here we travelled the natural world and journeyed across the seven continents in one epic experience, narrated by Sir David Attenborough. This immersive exhibition brought together state of the art audio visual technology and breathtaking footage from BBC Studios. The photography was sensational, and being the avid nature lover that I am, found the wildlife and scenery absolutely fascinating.

A brisk walk to the opposite side of Melbourne to see the matinee performance of Groundhog Day the Musical. Groundhog Day is a musical with music and lyrics by Tim Minchin and a book by Danny Rubin. According to tradition, when a groundhog leaves its burrow, if it sees its shadow, there will be six

more weeks of winter weather. If it doesn’t see its shadow, there will be an early spring. The first Groundhog Day celebration was held on 2nd February 1877, at Gobbler’s Knob in Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania.

Neither of us had seen the movie, or had any idea of what the show was about, but we thoroughly enjoyed the performance. It was very cleverly done, had great sets, and most entertaining. Loved it!

Another brisk walk to Melbourne Museum to see Titanic: The Artefact Exhibition. This is the only exhibition in Australia to feature more than 200 real artefacts, recovered directly from the wreck site. The exhibition focused on the voyage’s compelling human stories, taking visitors on a memorable journey through the events of that fateful night. Ironically, the Titanic set sail on this exact date 112 years ago! And it was a Wednesday! Great exhibition- the only negative comment was that it was a little too crowded.

Another brisk walk (we did 16500 steps today) to Miss Mi Restaurant in Bourke St – an award-winning modern Asian Restaurant & Bar. We had the most delicious chili flavoured prawn and crab dumplings, followed by a sensational laksa and beef Rendu. Excellent food choice.

Across the road was Southern Cross Station, so that made it very easy to stagger across to the train, for our return journey to Ballarat.

Day 15

Thursday 11th April 2024

Ballarat

8 – 15 degrees, cloudy

First job today was to drop my bike at a bike shop – Frank was having trouble changing the tube with my new electric bike, so to save stress we thought we’d get by someone else to do it!

Then we had planned a full day at Sovereign Hill – this is an open air museum depicting Ballarat’s first ten years after the discovery of gold in 1851 and has become a nationally acclaimed tourist attraction. The 25 hectare site comprises over 60 historically recreated buildings, with costumed staff and volunteers. The recreation is completed with antiques, artwork, books and papers, machinery, livestock and animals, carriages, and devices all appropriate to the era.

The gold diggings are the centre point of the complex, featuring a winding creek in which visitors are able to pan for real gold. Frank had a go – I think I’ll be waiting a while for a gold chain! This area is surrounded by tents and buildings contemporary to the early years of the Gold Rush.

There are two mines which you can tour – we did both. One was self guided, the second took us by cable tram down to the first level (of 11) to a depth of 25 metres. We saw a replica of the famous Welcome Nugget – the second-largest gold nugget in the world was found in Ballarat in the Red Hill Mine. It was 69 kgs!

We watched the Gold Pour where pure gold valued at $300,000 is melted and poured into a three-kilogram bullion bar.

Main Street is lined with shops, two hotels and a theatre. There is a blacksmith’s workshop, stables, photography studio, apothecary, bakery, jeweller’s shop, grocer, tentmaker, tinsmith, bank, post office, candle-dipping shop, lolly shop, nine-pin bowling saloon and library. We can both recommend the Devonshire tea at the New York Bakery. Behind Main Street are some period cottages all furnished from the time, and a couple of schools.

It was a fabulous day – we saw so many demonstrations, all delivered with such great enthusiasm and story telling creativity.

We stayed right until close, picked up the bike, then went back to our nice cosy mobile home for a hearty warming dinner.

Day 16

Friday 12th April 2024

Ballarat

6 – 15 degrees

Today we decided to do a day trip to Hall’s Gap – we knew it really was a destination where you need to spend a few days, but at least this would give us an idea of what the area is like. Hall’s Gap is a 100 minute drive from Ballarat.

We had a coffee stop at Ararat on the way. The discovery of gold in 1857 during the Victorian gold rush transformed Ararat into a boomtown. The Main Street had some nice Art Deco buildings. There has been a decline in population over the years, but it seems a nice country town to me.

Halls Gap is a village in Victoria, Australia. It’s a gateway to Grampians National Park, known for its sandstone mountains, wildflowers and wildlife including abundant bird life, echidnas, emus, kangaroos and wallabies (we had a great show with emus and kangaroos grazing on the local oval). The area is renowned for spectacular hiking, cycling and stunning views, also canoeing and fishing in any of the four lakes.

As we only had a few hours to explore, we had our picnic lunch, then did a short hike to view the lakes. The well graded tracks took us through native vegetation and interesting rock formations, to the viewpoint, where we got a magnificent view of the Grampians, Lake Lonsdale and Lake Bellfield. You could easily spend a week here enjoying the area. Lots of accommodation options – cabins, caravan parks and motels.

We stopped at Stawell on our return trip. Stawell was another booming town during the Victorian Gold Rush. It is now famous for the Stawell Gift foot race, an event held each Easter since 1878. The Stawell Gift Hall of Fame was closed, but we did see the track where this iconic 120-metre race is run. We had a walk around the town, again interesting architecture, evidence of a rich past. We saw the Art Deco Town Hall clock chime 3.00pm – there are two figures depicting miners working on the gold fields.

A lovely drive back to Ballarat. I was surprised by the many birds feeding at the side of the road – striking Eastern Rosellas, cheeky galahs , noisy Victorian corellas, just to name the ones I knew.

The trees in this area have been a picture, all the leaves are turning their beautiful autumn colours. We really liked Ballarat and surrounding areas – the architecture, the gardens, wildlife, and the tourist attractions. Just not sure about the weather… I really hadn’t anticipated how cold it would be. If this is autumn, I am fairly confident I won’t be back for winter!

Day 17

Saturday 13th April 2024

Ballarat to Port Campbell

9 – 17 degrees

312 kms

Headed out from Ballarat, going via the outskirts of Geelong, down to Torquay. Drove through lovely green farming countryside, again seeing all the beautiful leaves changing colours.

Torquay is the start of the Great Ocean Road. Very busy town, lots of tourists and surfing beaches. Anglesea was the next town – time for our coffee stop, and what better place to stop than at the Great Ocean Road Chocolaterie and Icecreamery! Here you could watch the chocolatiers at work – but, who just wants to watch when there’s chocolate to be eaten! The dark chocolate licorice was to die for!

Now the road is getting windy. Lorne is the next town – a gorgeous beachside spot. Again very touristy, but would be a great spot for a holiday.

The heritage museum here was very interesting. The 243 km Great Ocean Road is a memorial to the lost lives and sacrifices of the Australian diggers in World War One. More than 3000 returned soldiers built the Road from 1919 onwards, conquering steep cliffs, rugged terrain and dangerous weather so that the isolated towns along Victoria’s stunning western coastline could be joined together. This road is truly a memorial to the sweat and toil of the returned soldiers, who built it painstakingly by hand over 13 years.

The scenery between Lorne and Apollo Bay was absolutely spectacular- huge sandstone cliffs and a rugged coastline carved by the Southern Ocean. The road was narrow and very windy, but did have “slow turnout “ lanes at regular intervals for people like us! It was a lot of concentrating driving this great highway.

Apollo Bay was another busy little seaside town – cafes, hotels, caravan parks, beaches, all very busy. It was the last weekend of school holidays, so that would explain why.

All of a sudden we were driving through Otway National Park- a beautiful rainforest. A total change of scenery. Next we were driving through large farming pastures – dairy and beef cattle, alpacas, and sheep.

It was a slow drive but we eventually we got to Port Campbell where we checked in at NRMA Holiday Park – lovely park in a great location. Lots of walking paths surround the park, and only a five minute walk into town.

Port Campbell is more of a sleepy seaside town – not too commercial, we both really liked the feel of it! We walked into town, stopped at the Barrel Room for a drink, and watched the sun set behind the cliffs and over the little beach. We then found Waves, a local restaurant where we enjoyed a very nice meal.

Back to the caravan, stopping a few times to look at the cute little rabbits foraging around the park – there were a lot of them. Apparently they are becoming quite prolific in the area, even to becoming a problem.

Day 18

Sunday 14th April 2024

Port Campbell

11 -17 degrees

Our day to explore the landmarks along Great Ocean Road. We were only 12 kms each way from all the good spots, so Port Campbell was a great location to base ourselves. Luckily the weather was looking good – we have found the weather to be so unpredictable! It changes every hour!

Heading east form Port Campbell we went to Loch Ard Gorge first which is the site of the most famous shipwreck on the aptly named Shipwreck Coast. The Loch Ard ran aground crashing into Mutton Bird Island in 1878. 52 of the 54 passengers died. There is a cemetery there.

The Twelve Apostles are probably the most famous of the landmarks – these soaring pillars have been chiselled out of limestone over 10 to 20 million years. However there are not twelve apostles- some have worn away with time, new ones are forming.

We then walked to Gibson Beach which is 1.1km from the 12 Apostles. The Gibson Steps are a steep 86 steps down to the beach – it was great to look up at the jagged sandstone cliffs from the beach below.

Heading west from Port Campbell, was London Bridge, one of the most iconic scenes in Australia, and offers lots of stunning views over the surrounding scenery. This stack was formed by a gradual process of erosion, and until 1990 formed a complete double-span natural bridge. London Bridge has now half “fallen down”!

Next the Grotto, a sinkhole geological formation and tourist attraction. Wooden steps wind down the cliff face to the bottom, providing visibility of the sea beyond a pool at low tide. It was amazing how quiet it was once you were down at the base.

Halladale Point gave us spectacular views back to the Bay of Martyrs which is a part of the Bay of Islands Coastal Park. More stunning scenery.

Heading back to Port Campbell we stopped at the sleepy town of Peterborough – beautiful beaches, people swimming (despite the outside temperature of 13 degrees – Victorians?? )

Along our drive we saw at least 6 Short beaked echidnas wandering along the edge of the roads. The traffic noise didn’t seem to bother them. As soon as we stopped so I could take a photo, they scurried into the scrub! Apparently they are quite active at this time if year when the days are not too hot.

Back to base, we walked out to the Port Campbell jetty to enjoy the sunset – very colourful skies over the cliffs. Then we got to enjoy the slow cooked lamb shanks we had had cooking in the slow cooker for the day. Perfect ending for a wonderful day.

Day 19

Monday 15th April 2024

Port Campbell to Port Fairy

12 -18 degrees

97 kms

Woke up to sunny skies, within an hour it was drizzly, then rained all the way on our drive to Port Fairy. Then the rain stopped and we had a sunny afternoon. The weather is so unpredictable!

Easy set up at Gardens Caravan Park on the banks of the Moyne River. Then set out to explore Port Fairy, another quaint seaside town.

We decided to explore Griffiths Island – a small island which lies at the mouth of the Moyne River next to, and within the bounds of Port Fairy. It is a sanctuary for plants, birds and animals. It took us an hour to walk around the island, stopping at the lighthouse, and watching the surfers enjoying the waves. The Short-tailed Shearwater, or “Mutton Bird” nests in large numbers on Griffiths Island. The name “Mutton Bird” was given to it by early settlers who used its fatty flesh for food and as an oil source. The adult birds had just left their nests to make their annual pilgrimage to the Aleutian Islands in Alaska, leaving their babies in the nests. When the babies are hungry , they will leave the nests and fly to Alaska as well. Nature is amazing!

A little explore of Port Fairy – is a quaint little town, lots of cafes, restaurants and boutiques. Some interesting architecture. Real estate seems on the expensive side here. The river front is especially pretty. Huge Norfolk Island pines line the streets – early settlers planted these in anticipation for the masts required on their ships. We rode our bikes along the beach and river fronts. Frank had me riding on narrow bridges with no guard rails – very traumatising for me! But I survived!

Made it back to our caravan site in time for another beautiful sunset – this time over the river. Stunning!

Day 20

Tuesday 16th April 2024

Port Fairy to Warrnambool to Port Fairy

11-17 degrees, sunny

We woke to a sunny morning – it was beautiful! Not to waste it, we walked around the Port Fairy riverfront – I wanted to have a better look at the gorgeous homes rather than worry about my cycling skills!

We then headed to Warrnambool (30 minutes away), to go to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village which is a maritime village and museum built on Flagstaff Hill and holds the original lighthouses and

Warrnambool Garrison. The museum is full of fascinating information and displays about the shipwreck coast of Victoria. We did the tour at 11.30 and the guide was excellent. The village is a dozen replica shops along the hill including a dressmakers, a printer and a church and gives you a very good feel of life in Australia in the 1800s. Soaking up the sunshine, we had our picnic lunch overlooking the lake in the park – it was very entertaining watching the Purple swamp hens balancing on the reeds. More Norfolk pine trees here. Pretty flower gardens, though the increasing rabbit population is making it difficult to maintain.

By mid afternoon we had seen everything so we went to the Fletcher Jones Markets which is located within the Old Fletcher Jones Clothing Factory. I remember going here 50 years ago, and the gardens were stunning. The gardens today are lovely but nowhere near as nice as I remember from all that time ago. The market is packed with antiques, antiquarian books, collectables, retro, vintage, a great collection of records, vintage clothing, new giftware and loads more. You could spend hours poking around here.

Tower Hill is an inactive volcano 18 kms west of Warrnambool, now a wildlife reserve and home to more than 150 bird species, koalas, grey kangaroos, and emus. We had an hour to spare so drove through the reserve. Lots of hiking trails. The inquisitive emus came right up to our car, hoping for some food scraps no doubt.

Back to town for an early dinner at Whaler’s Hotel. At 7pm we went back to Flagstaff Hill for the Sound and Light show, called ‘Tales of the Shipwreck Coast’. With engaging storytelling, interactive digital imagery, and dazzling lighting and sound effects the stories of our volcanic plains, the whaling industry and the famous Loch Ard shipwreck were passed onto us. We were very impressed. It was very cool outside, so we were pleased to warm up in the car driving back to Port Fairy. A great day in all.

Day 21

Wednesday 17th April 2024

Port Fairy to Naracoorte

10-17 degrees

301 kms

A rainy start – surprise, surprise! I am getting over the weather along this coastline. It was a 93 kms drive to Portland, lightly raining all the way. When we got to Portland, the rain stopped.

With only a short stop here, we jumped on the Portland Cable Tram to get an overview of this port town. A 7.4km route meanders along Portland’s foreshore, stopping at the Portland Maritime Discovery Centre, Powerhouse Museum, World War II Memorial lookout, Portland Botanic Gardens. The return trip took an hour. The trams have been restored by volunteers, who double up as tram drivers and tour guides. Great to hear about the town told by locals. Beautiful foreshore parks and playgrounds. Portland is a hub for forestry products and manufacturing, and the port is a busy area for timber, wood chip, grain and aluminium.

We joined the Princess Highway again, travelling through big plantations of blue gum and radiata pine, crossed the border just after Nelson (after making sure we’d eaten all our fresh fruit for quarantine requirements), and arrived in Mt Gambier.

The Blue Lake in Mount Gambier occupies one of the craters of the extinct volcano after which the city has been named. Early each November, the lake’s sombre blue, which is in evidence during the winter months, mysteriously changes to an intense deep turquoise blue almost overnight. The colouring remains until late February, when it gradually changes. From late March, it returns to a distinct sombre blue colouring that remains until the following November. Luckily for our visit, the lake was still a vibrant blue. Very pretty.

Umpherston Sinkhole, also known as the sunken garden, was once a cave formed through dissolution of the limestone. The sinkhole was created when the top of the chamber collapsed downwards. Now the topsoil down on the floor forms the perfect environment for the sunken garden. The sinkhole was made into a garden by James Umpherston in 1886. Now it is owned and maintained by the Town Council.

We have been enjoying the deciduous trees all through Victoria, all showing their autumn colours – purple leaf ornamental plum tree, the many varieties of the maple trees, liquid amber trees, and oak trees. The colours are just glorious. We don’t get the autumn changes like this in Queensland.

We left Mt Gambier and travelled the Riddoch Highway through the Coonawarra Winery region until we reach Naracoorte. The drive was so pretty – so many vineyards where even the grape leaves are changing colours. Sheep grazed between the vines. Magnificent gum trees stood guard over the vineyards.

Coonawarra Wine Region boasts the most sought-after vineyard soil in Australia, and with 27 Cellar Doors lining the famed terra rossa ‘strip’, there is no shortage of wine available for tasting. Best known for Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra also excels in the production of premium Shiraz and cool climate Riesling. We had to stop at at least one winery, it would be rude not to – so we topped up our wine collection from Wynns Coonawarra. Good choice!

Thirty minutes later we settled in at the Naracoorte Showgrounds – what a great place. The managers were so welcoming and walked us to our site which had grass like carpet! A great find.

Town was a five minute walk away. I’d read that Naracoorte Hotel had trivia on a Wednesday night… and guess what, it was Wednesday night! So off we went to give it a go. It was great fun, this trivia had a buzzer system – not that I managed to get a hold of it! I will say, we didn’t totally embarrass ourselves (we didn’t come last), but La Triviata had plenty of room for improvement! Frank’s excuse was he wasn’t used to the buzzer!

Day 22

Thursday 18th April 2024

Naracoorte to Adelaide

7-19 degrees

330 kms

Such a great spot – we had left the van hooked up, so easy get away. I wished we had an extra day/night here, but we had already booked the next night (and being SA school holidays we needed to book!). I know I am going on about it, but the grassed oval was just amazing! There was also more to see in Naracoorte area than we had realised- but, that’s how it rolls on the road! Adelaide, here we come!

Continuing on the Riddoch Highway, we drove through gorgeous vineyards of the Padthaway Wine region. Coffee stop at Keith, then followed the Duke Highway right into Adelaide. We had a lunch stop at Tailem Bed overlooking the Murray River. Another short stop at Coonalpyn to see the silo art.

The Coonalpyn Silos are huge and very close to the road. These silos were the first silos to be painted in South Australia and were completed in March 2017. Painted by Guido van Helten, the mural depicts rural renewal through the ages.

Onto Adelaide, right through the city centre. It was a long steep descent through Adelaide Hills. We were booked into the Adelaide Showgrounds Caravan Park in Goodwood, an inner southern suburb of Adelaide – great location, only a few kms from the city. Once we were set up, it started raining – we were a bit worried we had brought the rain with us! We needed to get a few groceries, so it was a good opportunity to go out and get that done.

Day 23

Friday 19th April 2024

Adelaide

13-19 degrees, sunny

The rain has gone- thank goodness!

A few domestic duties, before catching the bus into the city (the fare was $1 each way!) to go to the Central Market. What great food and produce – so fresh and well presented. So many choices for lunch!

We had a little wander around the surrounding area before bussing it back.

Our lovely friend Sue, picked us up in the afternoon to take us back to her gorgeous house in Dulwich, a tightly held inner suburb of Adelaide. Her garden is magnificent, and we could just see the joy it gives her. Sue cooked us yummy pasta for dinner. We toasted her late husband Den – sadly he had passed very suddenly only six months earlier. Such a loss.

Day 24

Saturday 20th April 2024

Adelaide

10-22 degrees, sunny

Some retail therapy today. We caught the bus again into the city. The Rundle Mall was calling.

After I had got the shopping out of my system (it only took Frank a few minutes for that!), we did some walking – admiring the historical buildings in North Terrace. The Torrens River is bordered by very beautiful parks and architecturally interesting structures.

We thought we needed a good walk so walked 45 minutes back to our “home”, taking in all the sites along the way.

I am loving all the trees – they are turning their autumn colours. Absolutely stunning. Varieties include.. Claret Ash, the many varieties of maple, Manchurian Pear , White cedar, and the Golden Plane.

A quiet night in, with a chance for Frank to catch up on the football.

Day 25

Sunday 21st April 2024

Adelaide

9-22 degrees, sunny

Woke up to a stunning day. Great day to take a day trip to the McLaren Vale wine region. Just a 45 minute drive south from Adelaide, McLaren Vale is a wine lover and foodie’s paradise. It boasts more than 80 vineyards all on the doorstep of the Fleurieu Peninsula’s stunning coastline and sandy beaches.

We had booked to go to d’Arenberg Winery, established in 1912 by the Osborn family. It is home to the Cube – a five-storey building situated within the d’Arenberg vineyards. The Cube is a quirky glass structure which mimics a Rubix Cube. The entrance leads into a visual arts centre, the top floor is where the wines can be tasted and you can experience 360’ views of the McLaren Vale wine region. Currently on the second floor is the Salvador Dali exhibition – loved it! The whole experience was excellent. Going to the toilet was an experience in itself! The wines were a hit – of course we had to purchase, even a special wine – Dead Arm, found its way into our take home pack.

A nice drive around the McLaren Vale surrounding area, arriving at Aldinga Beach. Went to have a walk on the beach, but it was very thick with seafood. Onto Port Willunga where we had booked to go to Star of Greece restaurant for a late lunch. The location of this place can’t be beaten… it is perched on top of a cliff overlooking the site of the Star of Greece ship wreck, with views up and down the beach and right out to the bay. The food was fresh and incredibly tasty, and the wait staff were friendly and attentive. Five star reviews by us.

Time to drive home, no dinner tonight – had to recover from lunch!

Day 26

Monday 22nd April 2024

Adelaide

10-25 degrees

Clare Valley today- Sue had very generously offered to be the driver. It was 90 minutes each way. We had a coffee stop at Velvet and Willow in Auburn – a coffee shop with a rambling garden out the back for us to enjoy.

Stopped at a few wineries at Clare , Taylor’s being one of note – a few more wines to add to our collection. Beautiful autumn trees on the drive. The landscape is quite dry though – apparently this is typical, they get the majority of their rain in winter. Thousands of sheep, some cattle and alpacas.

Nestled away between the Clare and Gilbert Valleys, the township of Mintaro and its surrounding district, hold the stories of occupation by the traditional indigenous people, by early pastoralists and then by colonial settlers who came to the area during the mining and agricultural booms in the mid to late 1800s. Lots of homes made of stone and slate.

We also visited Martindale Hall, a Georgian style mansion completed in 1880. It is an outstanding example of a grand country mansion constructed by wealthy pastoralists. The property, including the mansion, its interiors, and coach house, retain a high degree of integrity and illustrate a way of life that no longer exists in South Australia. I could rather imagine myself living here though… dream on! The stately home’s claim to fame is that it featured in the movie “Picnic at Hanging Rock”.

We continue on into the heart of Clare where we end up at Mr Mick’s Cellar Door and Kitchen, our late lunch stop. Mick Wines are named after the late K.H. (Mr. Mick) Knappstein, an Australian wine making legend and Tim Adams’ mentor and friend. Tim and his wife Pam are proud custodians of the landmark property that now bears his name and houses a renowned restaurant, cellar door and gallery. We had the set tapas menu with paired wines. Excellent value! We had so much food, and plenty to drink! We were so grateful for our driver!

Also we were thankful for Sue’s local knowledge- we stopped at O’Leary’s winery, this time at the back door. Here we bought cleanskin Shiraz 2021- the same Shiraz that had just won a gold medal and retailed for $38 – we paid under $8 per bottle. Obviously it’s who you know!!!

We stayed awake for the 90 minute return trip, some minor suffering from food coma symptoms! I had had far too much to eat and drink! No dinner tonight! Quiet night in for us!

Day 27

Tuesday 23rd April 2024

Adelaide

10-25 degrees, sunny, then windy, then a cool change at 3pm

Port Adelaide today. This port has been the gateway to trade and commerce in South Australia and the first contact with South Australia for thousands of emigrants when they arrived by ship.

Now with character-laden streets awash with street art, cobbled laneways, heritage architecture and beautifully preserved 19th century warehouses, this up and coming historic port town has really come into its own. Steeped in rich maritime history we thought we would visit the Maritime Museum. There are three floors of exhibits in an 1850’s bond store – some great displays. The three school groups that happened to be there, thought so as well!

We walked around the historic precinct, very charming, found the information centre which was the original police station and holding cells. The original court next was next door. Also a historic 1864 Clipper Ship is undergoing restoration.

We drove to Garden Island, past the Ship’s Graveyard, on to the Dolphin Reserve. We walked the boardwalk looking for dolphins, but none today.

A beautiful spot for a picnic lunch though.

Next we wanted to go to the beach area of Glenelg. Just as we got there the wind came up and the cool change came in! It was like a whirly wind! Branches were flying down, and we were neatly blown over! Our visit was very short! Saw the foreshore, the jetty and the Ferris wheel, and that was it! Have heard there is a bike trail all the way from Adelaide to Glenelg – will have to do that another visit.

Back to rescue our awning from the wind, plus rug up. I’m sure the wind was straight from Antartica!

Day 28

Wednesday 24th April 2024

Adelaide

7-18 degrees, sunny

A gorgeous cool autumn day, and we were headed to the Adelaide Hills area for the day. First a quick stop in the suburb of Unley to sort out an issue at the bank. What a beautiful area!

Unley is a trendy, affluent neighbourhood known for its boutique shopping scene, with shops selling designer fashions, artisan homewares and quirky gifts. Stylish Asian and Modern Australian eateries sit next to dessert bars and chic cafes, while swank pubs and cocktail bars draw a young professional crowd. Many of the neighbourhood homes in the tree lined streets are constructed of stone blocks- we could have driven around the streets for hours!

Adelaide Hills is only a 30 minute drive from Adelaide. We drove to Hahndorf via Stirling (a very picturesque town highlighted even more by the changing autumn timings of the trees), where we enjoyed a morning tea at a very trendy cafe, Konitorei – very popular. Lovely little town. Continuing our scenic drive through little towns of Aldgate, Bridgewater and Verdun, until we reached our destination of Hahndorf.

Hahndorf is a famous small town in the Adelaide Hills. Settled by 19th-century Lutheran migrants, and is Australia’s oldest surviving German settlement. We parked and wandered up and down the Main Street. Strolling the tree-lined main street, we came across butchers, bakers and candlestick makers, shops, galleries and studios, a cheese maker, leathersmith, jeweller, a craft brewery, winery cellar doors, gin distillery, chocolatier, traditional sweet shops, German-style pubs, multicultural restaurants and cafés. We have been there a couple of times before, but it always proves a nice visit, especially when it’s chilly and the fires are on inside all the buildings.

The museum was very interesting, telling stories of the lives of Hahndorf’s pioneering families, and showcases objects relating to religion and education. Their religion underpinned their activities, and education was a prime focus.

A late lunch at The Plough (yes it was an Irish Inn, not German), was welcomed – seafood chowder for me, and a Guinness pie for Frank, with a glass of Guinness of course!

Time to head back to Adelaide, driving down the steep descent back to the city.

At 5pm, we met up with Sue and her friend, to say farewell. We walked up to a trendy little wine bar in Goodwood, Good Gilbert. Great atmosphere. Adelaide really has some fabulous little bars, creating a great vibe in the suburbs.

A few drinks later, we walked home, turned on the heater, and settled in for the night. Temperatures have certainly dropped!

Day 29

Thursday 25th April 2024, Anzac Day

Adelaide to Williamstown

7-18 degrees, sunny

75 kms

5.40am dawn service at Unley Soldier’s Memorial Gardens which features canons and a rotunda. Very nice service by the local community. Frank met up with long time Naval colleague Kevin Scarce, which was really nice for him. We passed on the Gunfire breakfast, instead enjoying a relaxing breakfast at La Scala cafe across the road.

A quick pack up, snd it was time to say farewell to Adelaide. On the road, and 90 minutes later we were at Williamstown Caravan Park. The sites were rather odd shaped – we had a drive through, but still awkward.

Had an early lunch then out to explore the Barossa Valley. We were at the southern end of the area, 30 minutes north is Nuriootpa with Lyndoch and Tanunda in between. So many wineries!

At Lyndoch we went to 1837 Barossa winery for our first wine tasting. The 1837 Barossa winery commemorates the date on which Colonel William Light named the Barossa in December 1837 on the estate. All wine names are connected with Colonel Light’s life. Nice wines, our favourite was the Merlot (and not usually a Merlot fan!) – we sipped that while enjoying the breathtaking views and landscape of rolling hills blanketed in rows of vines, punctuated with modern art sculptures.

A visit to Tanunda next, the information centre, and a nice cafe for coffee and Anzac biscuits. Needed a little caffeine fix after our early start!

Out to Seppeltsfield next, stopping first at Langmail Cellar Door (we’d been here early in our courting days), but it was closed, and then at Barossa Valley Estate. The gardens here were spectacular- one of the largest perennial gardens in Australia. The oak trees and changing colours of the grape vines were a sight to behold.

Continuing down the palm tree lined road we arrived at Seppeltsfield. I remember the grandeur of the buildings from my childhood visit here. Established in 1851, Seppeltsfield Estate has been hailed as the most historic winery and greatest showpiece in the Barossa. The Estate has evolved into a tourism village offering wine, food, craft, design, art and retail experiences, with the winery and cellar door at the centre. Lovely to visit.

By this time it was 5pm, and the cellar doors were closed. Back to our caravan for a quiet night in. Definitely a quiet night, no TV reception for the next three days.

Day 30

Friday 26th April 3024

Barossa Valley

7-17 degrees, sunny

We slept in until 8am! So then we had to rush to get out in time for our pre booked staff guided wine tasting.

Three wineries were on the agenda, starting with Grant Burge – chocolate and wine pairing. Not a bad way to start the day! Planting their roots in the Barossa Valley in 1865, the Burge’s began as a family of devoted vignerons. For five generations, they have been growing grapes and making wines that continuously exceeds expectations. Our picks were the sparkling Shiraz Cabernet, and the Filsell Shiraz. We spent 90 minutes there.

Next was St Hallett, established in 1944 by the Lindber family. Shiraz wines are the signature piece here. We enjoyed wine and cheese pairing here, looking out at the beautiful gardens.

Third stop was Rolf Binder Cellar Door -this winery was established in 1955. Here we had more wine tasting accompanied by home made pizza. The signature ‘Bull’s Blood’ Shiraz Mataro, produced since 1967, was a big hit. We sat in the gardens to eat the pizza, but moved inside to sit beside to fire to enjoy the last few drops of our wine. We were feeling very full by this time.

Maggie Beer’s Farm Shop was 2 kms away, so we enjoyed a walk to there, and then walking through the farm yard, and sitting overlooking the lake watching the turtles at play. So many interesting gourmet food items in the shop – I really didn’t know where to start.

What a lovely day it had been. We drove back to Williamstown – gourmet lamb chops on the barbie for us! Yum! So many red wine choices to go with them. We have bought 4 dozen wines so far – needless to say we are fast running out of room in the car.

Day 31

Saturday 27th April 2024

Barossa Valley

6-18 degrees , sunny

First off we drove 16kms to the commercial hub, Gawler, as we wanted to get someone to check on our new car bike rack – it wasn’t tightening on the tow ball as much as we thought it should. Mission accomplished, always something simple, but it was worth the trip. . Back to pick up our bikes, and out for a bike ride. There are a myriad of great bike trails in the Valley.

We parked just before Nuriootpa, found the bike path and rode to Angaston, one of the region’s highest towns, and home to a variety of cafes, wine bars, cheesemaker, and of course, cellar doors. The Railway Station is listed as State Heritage. As we descended back to Nuriootpa, we had panoramic views over the Valley floor and rolling vineyards that symbolise the Barossa. It was a lovely ride.

Afterwards we enjoyed a nice picnic lunch at one of the very pretty parks in town. Across the road was Penfolds Cellar Door. The 2019 Grange was $100 for a tasting (and no refund if you bought a bottle for $1000!) Thought we might pass on this – instead having a yummy cream across the way at the Barossa Ice creamery. Black licorice for me, Irish Cream for Frank. Delicious!

Bethany Village was the next destination. Bethany was the first German settlement in the Barossa Valley area. It was settled in 1842, by Prussian immigrants.

The winery is owned and run by the Schrapel family, who first planted vines from cuttings in 1852 soon after arriving from Silesia. The Cellar Door sits in a commanding position on top of a hill, with panoramic views over the valley below. The standouts for us were the Rose and Grenache. I really like the blue caps and labelling – chosen to symbolise the bluestone in the area.

Not far from Bethany was Chateau Tanunda. Established in 1890, Château Tanunda is the site of some of the Barossa Valley’s first vines planted, as well as its first winery. The majestic bluestone winery and vineyards are a living testament to the colourful history and pioneering spirit of Australia’s most famous wine region. The buildings were certainly very impressive.

Home for a shower, and out for dinner at the Cellar Kitchen at Rowland Flats, another little village between Lyndoch and Tanunda.

The food philosophy at The Cellar Kitchen is to showcase ingredients from the farms, fields and homes of fellow Barossan’s and South Australians. Inspired by the farmers, the ingredients growing wild around us, and by the seasons and what the harvest will bring, the food was certainly tasty. Frank had Potted Beef with onion jam for entree, and lamb rump with carrot and chimchurri dressing for mains, I had yellowfin tuna with sesame and wasabi, followed by quail with lentils and pomegranate dressing. All so nice! Good choice, and nice finale to our Barossa stay.

Day 32

Sunday 28th April 2024

Williamstown to Renmark

9-24 degrees, sunny

207 kms

Another perfect autumn day. Shorts weather … for Frank anyway!

We hitched up and drove to Nuriootpa – we haven’t really hadn’t seen much of this township, so parked and had a walk around. Being a Sunday many of the small shops and boutiques were closed. We did find a nice cafe however. The trees, parks and flower gardens are just so pretty.

Onto Renmark, 170 kms straight along the Sturt Highway. Passed hundred of caravans coming the other way – last day of school holidays for South Australia. Checked into Renmark River Bend Caravan Park – the most beautiful spot on the banks of the Murray River. We had lunch by the water’s edge watching the menagerie of water hens, pelicans and ducks busy going about their daily activities. Very peaceful.

Must be time for a tasting! We thought we’d try a distillery for a change. Rustons Distillery is a boutique distillery where we found a delicious range of gins all carefully handcrafted and distilled in their very own distillery. There was also the most amazing rose garden.

The Rustons story dates back to 1919 when Cuthbert Ruston was allotted the land as part of a soldier settlement program. While the property was originally a fruit orchard David Ruston, one of Cuthbert’s sons, indulged his passion for roses by planting them wherever he could. By the 1970’s, David had completely converted the property to roses which eventually housed 4,000 species of roses and the National Rose Collection. The roses were spectacular, and used in some of the gin recipes.

Next we went back into Renmark town to look at the river front. It is beautiful, so peaceful looking with all the river gums lining the banks. All the gardens have flowering roses – such a pretty town.

Over the bridge, next to our caravan park is Paringa. The Paringa Silo Art stands tall and proud, offering a glimpse into the areas past, selected historical figures and relaxed lifestyle on the Murray River. They were painted by Jack Fran and Sam Brooks.

Also went for a drive to look at Murray River Lock Number 5 – built during the 1920’s to regulate the flow and the levels of the Murray River. Beautiful picnic grounds and information boards are available for use.

Dinner at the caravan park, sitting on the edge of the Murray, such a beautiful night, enjoying our neighbour’s company, and their fire pit… maybe that’s what we need!

Day 33

Monday 29th April 2024

Renmark

8-23 degrees, sunny

Perfect day for a bike ride! We could ride from the caravan park, along the train line/ then river, right into Renmark. It felt wonderful! We stopped at the Information Centre where we got a few tips for the next few days, then onto Arrosto Coffee – Renmark’s own coffee brewer. Enjoyed the coffee, and enjoyed all the roses in town (can’t believe how beautiful the gardens are), then rode back to our caravan. It felt great… I must be getting more confident on my bike!

Lunch, then a driving tour of the local area. Berri, better known as Australia’s fruit bowl, has some of Australia’s best regional produce and is lined with rich riverbanks teeming with wildlife and a fascinating history. I remember visiting Berri as a child – the highlight was doing a tour over the Berri fruit juice factory- all the free samples! That was a real treat when you’re a child! That factory closed in 2010. Now, there is a beautiful river front walk, which we enjoyed, also the soldiers memorial (more roses). Beautiful gardens everywhere here.

A deviation to look at Berri’s Lock Number 3, then onto Loxton. Loxton’s primary productions are agriculture & horticulture. Citrus fruit, wine grapes, almond and stone fruit trees are prevalent. Lovely little town where there is a great affiliation with returned soldiers and involvement in World Wars and post World War 11 engagements. We loved that the streets were named after VC winners, military nurses and famous battles. Also had a wander through conservation park to see the 16 tree sculptures, done by locals (school students). There is a historical village here, but unfortunately closed on a Monday.

Pretty drive back to Renmark, where we managed to source our very own fire pit! I was very excited! Back to the caravan to set the fire pit up. Before long, we had our own little fire. The Barossa red wine complemented the atmosphere!

We were entertained by the purple swamp hens who were busy running around the river foreshore- not at all worried that we were right there. The water rats, were also on a mission – scavenging what they could before the sun went down. Rakali, previously known as Australia’s ‘water rat’, is an important species in Australia’s aquatic ecosystems. They can be found anywhere in Australia where there is water all year round; the species’ only habitat requirement is clean water and plenty of vegetation. I eventually got used to the idea that they weren’t really rats!

It really was so lovely sitting beside the fire on the banks of the Murray. Do we really have to get dinner??? Very relaxing!

Day 34

Tuesday 30th April 2024

Renmark, SA to Wentworth, NSW

8-18 degrees, sunny

130 kms

Only a short drive today, continuing on the Sturt Highway. Travelling from Renmark, we drove through more vineyards, and many fruit orchards ( a lot of oranges). We had decided to stay at Wentworth at a free camp beside the sports oval. We thought we’d drop off the van and do an afternoon trip to Mildura. That way we would have 30 less kms to do the next day.

We got settled at the oval, then went to look at the great rivers. Wentworth lies at the confluence of Australia‘a two most important rivers, the Darling, and the Murray. Wentworth is the gateway to the outback of New South Wales. The Murray and Darling Rivers provide a serene and lush oasis in contrast to the arid landscape of the outback. There was plenty of water in the rivers.

We then went to Mildura – it is known as the centre of Victoria’s Food Bowl and is a major producer of citrus fruits.

Once in Mildura we explored the story of how the region became an irrigated oasis in the midst of an arid land (Australia’s first irrigation colony). George and WB Chaffey came to Australia from Canada in 1887, and purchased a defunct pastoral lease and created the Mildura Irrigation Colony. The brothers developed a series of steam-driven pumps to lift the water from the Murray River to irrigate up to 33,000 acres.

We visited the very grand Rio Vista, WB Chaffey’s family home, which now also houses Mildura’s Arts Cente, and the Mildura Station Homestead (also owned by the Chaffey family), both close to the very pretty river front. Also walked across Loch 11, and Mildura Weir. Beautiful parklands, and gardens. Roses are abundant here as well.

Next, stock up on fruit and vegetables whilst in Mildura – we had had to use up all our fresh before leaving South Australia.

Back to the caravan, where we settled in early for the night. No power, so no heater. A nice curry to warm our insides, a hot shower to warm the outsides, and off to bed.

Day 35

Wednesday 1st May, 2024

Wentworth to Broken Hill

6-20 degrees, sunny

338 kms

We survived the cool night at our free campsite. The afternoon sun had warmed the van nicely, and we had kept the door and windows closed. My hot water bottle had kept my feet nice and warm. Only trouble was so that we had gone to bed so early, that we were wide awake at 2am! At least we were nice and warm.

An easy hitch up, and we were on the road by 8.30. Instead of taking the Silver City Highway, Frank wanted to go via Lake Menindee along the Darling River Road. It was an extra 70 kms, and another hour. We weren’t sure if the road was sealed the whole way – it was, give or take a few detours and potholes!

The first stretch was 118 kms to Pooncarrie on the Darling – it might have been a bustling town during the Paddle Steamer era, but now a township of 60 residents, and has a nice cafe.

Onto Lake Menindee, this section was 123 kms, we saw some farmland, mostly mallee scrub, numerous goats – some behind fences, some on the road, as well as kangaroos. Low dry vegetation.

The Menindee Lakes are actually a system of 9 lakes, fed by the Darling River. We stopped at the lookout point to see the main one. It was huge -it can be dry, or it can be full. From what we heard, it was 50% full. The lake appears to be a Mecca for birdwatchers – so many pelicans, storks, cormorants and seagulls. Unbelievable!

Another 112 kms from Lake Menindee to Broken Hill. Flat, barren, and dare I say, boring landscape. More goats.

We arrived at Outback View Holiday Park at 1pm. A drive through site made our life easy. We parked, set up, then headed to the Information Centre to find out the best way to tackle the many sights of Broken Hill. Armed with a swag of brochures, we set out to the various lookouts around town to get a feel of what Broken Hill is all about.

The beating heart of this city has always been mining. The township formed after Charles Rasp came across interesting mineral deposits – they happened to be silver, lead and zinc. A silver rush soon followed and the township boomed. BHP was founded, and shaped almost every aspect of the city since. Broken Hill was declared Australia’s first Heritage Listed City in 2015.

Overlooking the city is The Line of Lode, the ore body that bisects the town. At the top is the Miners Memorial which pays tribute to all the lives lost working in the mines. More than 800 names are etched on the structure’s walls. It’s a perfect spot to stop and reflect on the human toll that came with the city’s growth. We drove to a couple of other lookout points and saw shafts and various equipment used in days gone past.

Sunset, and a quiet night in.

Day 36

Thursday 2nd May 2024

Broken Hill

8-21 degrees ,fine

Started our day with a 2 1/2 hour walking heritage tour of the city centre. The guide had so many colourful stories to tell, of how the city evolved, of life in the mines, and what Broken Hill is today.

Our walk included many heritage buildings and parks. The mines themselves contributed massively to the early Australian economy, but Broken Hill also played an important role in the early days of the Australian labour movement.

The magnificent Trades Hall in Broken Hill was home to the fight for workers rights, as unionists battled against ownership for improved working conditions. Strikes were organized here, workers gathered, and after a long and hard battle, the union won the right to a 35-hour work week for underground workers.

Lots of other beautiful buildings, I really liked the streetscape and big side streets. Sturt Park in the town centre was very pretty- more gorgeous roses. A gracious rotunda stands as a memorial to the sinking of the Titanic and the musicians (not sure why it is there) but very nice.

Next, The Big Picture – definitely worth seeing. Broken Hill artist, Ando, had a vision and ambition to create the world’s largest acrylic painting on canvas by a single artist. And he did! The 100 metre long and 12 metre high painting is a beautiful depiction of the outback landscape- incredible detail, especially when you consider the number of brushstrokes that were required to create the painting. The foreground was just as amazing, with red dirt, saltbushes and native “animals”. A silver jewellery display there was equally as interesting. Well to me anyway!

As the city began to form, so too did the art scene. We went to the Broken Hill City Art Gallery which was founded in 1904, the oldest regional gallery in NSW. It houses a great collection of colonial, modern and contemporary Australian artworks, including the internationally acclaimed “Brushmen of the Bush”.

From here it was straight to the Pro Hart Gallery. Known for his depictions of working-class and outback life, Pro (Kevin Charles) Hart was an internationally renowned artist who worked across many forms and here we could see a wide range of Pro’s wonderful drawings, etchings and sculptures. Pro was an artisan, painter, collector, inventor, father, friend and husband. A former miner, many of Pro’s works were inspired by that life. Hart was also a performance artist who experimented endlessly with new forms of expression, a sculptor who loved metal and stone, and an inventor extraordinaire who loved tinkering in his back shed. The gallery is amazing – a bit intimate, a bit quirky and full of amazing art, stories and experiences.

Time to get freshened up, and then out to the Astra Hotel where we met up with friends we had met on our Antarctic trip – Deirdre and Graham. They have a sheep/goat station out here. We had a absolutely wonderful night catching up with them. The grand finale was seeing Deirdre drive off in her Mustang!

Day 37

Friday 3rd May 2024

Broken Hill

10-18 degrees

The Sulphide Street Railway and Historical Museum was our first port of call today- great display which is dedicated to preserving the railway history of Broken Hill and surrounding region. Interesting story of the history of the Silverton Tramway Company – they couldn’t have a train line, so they got around it by calling it a tram line, and it became the most lucrative “train” line in Australia! Also interesting migrant and hospital displays, as well as mineral collections.

Agfair Broken Hill happened to be on this weekend – it is a two-day biennial event that showcases the latest technology, products, services, food, and wares from a variety of vendors. We had a couple of hours walking around enjoying the rural displays. Watched the “Butcher Girl” cut up a beef hindquarter – we were fascinated at the ease in which she did it.

From there we drove 12 kms to the Living Desert State Park nestled amongst the Barrier Ranges, a unique 2400 ha reserve dedicated for the protection of native flora and fauna. The one hour cultural walk was easy enough – some spectacular scenery of the surrounding landscape and mountains. We then we drove to the Sculpture area – twelve sculptures sit upon a lonely hilltop. The rock sculptures were created in 1993, and are now one of Broken Hill’s icons. We enjoyed a quiet drink whilst enjoying the sunset over the sculptures and surrounding landscape.

Once the sun had set, we drove back to the van, and enjoyed a divine lamb shoulder cooked in the slow cooker! That had to be one of our cooking masterpieces of the trip! The Barossa Shiraz paired ever so nicely with it!

Day 38

Saturday 4th May 2024

Broken Hill to Silverton to Broken Hill 10-18 degrees, cloudy

Located between Broken Hill and Silverton is the Historic Day Dream Mine (operational 1882-1973). Here we did a tour of an 1880s Cornish mining settlement that once boasted a population of over 500. Complete with miner’s hats we went deep underground through tunnels and caves to get a first-hand experience of what life was like for miners working down here by candlelight. Boys as young as 8 worked in the mines. The guide was a real character,and shared many colourful stories.

Onto Silverton – famous for its role in silver mining history, and on the silver screen, the historic town of Silverton (now with a population of 48), captures the charm of the outback while feeling instantly recognisable – possibly because it has starred in many iconic Australian films. We had lunch at the iconic Silverton Pub, the heart and soul of the town, then looked at local landmarks.

Mad Max Museum – Mad Max 2 (The Road Warrior) was filmed around Broken Hill and Silverton, Mundi Mundi Lookout, in 1981. The museum was full of memorabilia, props, photographs, working scripts and vehicles. Also went to John Dynon Art Gallery – some interesting displays (the outside looked like a collection of old bikes, VWs and other old parts) and artwork.

Drove to Mundi Mundi Lookout – red dirt plains for as far as the eye could see.

Back to Broken Hill, and straight to the car wash- the red dust is unbelievable!

Tonight we had dinner at the Palace Hotel – of “Priscilla Queen of the Desert” fame! The movie was filmed there in 1994. A unique place with painted murals from ceiling to floor. Nice meal, followed at 8.30 by a performance from local rock n roll band “Fire Bucket”. Great night.

Day 39

Sunday 5th May 2024

Broken Hill to Cobar

10-20 degrees, cloudy to sunny

457 kms

So now for the long drive home. Two hours drive along the Barrier Highway- a straight road through flat plains, red dirt and salt bush, lots of goats and emus along the road edge, until we got to Wilcannia. It was a little town, with not a lot there. It did have a few nice colonial sandstone buildings which looked like they had been recently renovated. For us, a fuel and coffee stop.

Another hour’s drive until we had a lunch stop at one of the roadside rest stops. The vegetation was becoming greener, more mulga tres, some gums, acacias, and more goats.

Close to another two hours drive to Cobar. The countryside was becoming greener, evidence of recent rain. Even more goats – nanny goats, Billy goats, lots of kids – twins, triplets- so many goats!

We arrived in Cobar, found the RSL where they offered free overnight camping. We got parked in record time, and went for a walk through the bustling metropolis of Cobar. Nice little regional town, with not a lot happening. Quiet night in for us, it had been a long driving day. A few more to go!

Day 40

Monday 6th May 2024

Cobar to Cunnamella

10-22 degrees, sunny

420 kms

The homeward journey continues. First leg today Cobar to Bourke via Kidman Highway- the road was good. There has been recent rain, so it was quite green, even puddles of water laying. And, guess what – more goats! Stacks of them! Emus as well – we even had an emu charge at us as we drove by. Also had a dead wild pig on the side of the road.

At Bourke, we stopped at the Historical Wharf on the Darling River. A little walk around town, eventually found a coffee. Checked on the road status – we had heard that the road to Cunnamulla was closed due to flooding. Not so, onto Cunnamulla we go. The Mitchell Highway was a great roadway. Vegetation was very green, and goes without saying, more goats!

At Cunnamulla we checked into the Warrego Riverside Caravan Park – lovely green park on the banks of the Warrego River. All sites were drive through and we could leave the car hooked up. At 5pm they had a community campfire which was great – always nice to meet new people and get more travel tips.

When that was over, we had dinner sitting around our own little campfire- very relaxing.

Day 41

Tuesday 7th May 2024

Cunnamulla to Nundigully

12-25 degrees, sunny

340 kms

Another easy pack up, before heading to the Information Centre to see the Cunnamulla Fella. Commissioned in 2004 to personify the ‘Cunnamulla Fella’ in the famous Slim Dusty song, this statue is an icon of the town.

The Cunnamulla Water tower mural was painted in 2019 by international artist Guido Van Helten. The image represents the children and the future of the community.

Heard about the festival Outback River Lights which is held each April. Something to mark on the calendar for another year.

Headed to St George then, on the Balonne Highway. Not the best road – narrow, bumpy and unmarked a lot of the way. The land however is all so green after the rain, so much feed for the sheep and cattle. It appears we have run out of goats! We stopped at Bollon on the way through for coffee and lunch.

Another 40 kms to Nundigully. We were having a second attempt at Nindigully Pub. We had stayed here on Boxing Day 2023 – but it was closed. It only closes two days a year, and we had picked one of them! It was quite muddy this time so everyone was parked on the upper level near the pub…. and so did we! We weren’t risking getting bogged!

Happy hour was 4pm. We had a couple of drinks (mind you, just as well it was happy hour, they weren’t exactly cheap, and very limited options, happy hour or not!) Met a nice couple , John and Jenny from Bribie, who we ended up having dinner with. We had heard about the great pub food … but, turns out it was the chef’s night off! Only pizzas on the menu! They were nice however, and a great atmosphere sitting around the open fire under the stars.

Eventually we went back to our own little fire, where we could enjoy our own selection of wine.

Day 42

Wednesday 8th May 2024

Nundigully to Stanthorpe

12-18 degrees

324 kms

Getting close to the end of the holiday. Another easy pack up, and off we go – managing to avoid the mud dips at the pub. Continuing on the Barwon Highway, we arrived in Goodiwindi in time for a coffee/ lunch break. Some nice boutiques in the main street, and of course Frank found a pie at the bakery.

A very bumpy road got us to Inglewood, then not far to Stanthorpe. It was by lovely to arrive there in time to welcome Jackson and Poppie home from school. A nice family time around the table enjoying home grown steaks!

Day 43

Stanthorpe to Brisbane

11 degrees in Stanthorpe to 23 degrees in Brisbane

217 kms

Our last day!

Found a great car/caravan wash in Warwick – good to get everything clean again. Naturally that attracted the rain – we had showers on and off all the way home. Lucky it stopped while we transferring everything from the van to the car. Eventually got home at 6pm, and then it took a couple of hours to unpack the car. It was a big day… always good to be home!

Blue Mountains 2019

A training course for Tracey in Sydney gave us the opportunity to travel down early and visit the iconic Blue Mountains, about 2 hours drive to the west of the NSW state capital.

After a comfortable flight with Virgin Australia, we picked up the hire car, a Subaru Forester, at the domestic terminal in Sydney. An easy drive of saw us arrive at our lodgings in Katoomba just after dark.

We stayed in a nice little AirBnB on the main street leading to Echo Point.

Our digs for the weekend – very warm once the fie was started

After settling in, we needed dinner. A quick scan identified a suitable restaurant and, would you believe it, right across the road! Pins on Lurline – what a fantastic experience. We chose the small degustation with matching wines. Food was sensational and the wines great. We could certainly recommend this place.

This is the place to dine in Katoomba – Pins on Lurline

Friday saw us out or an early drive and walk down to Echo Point to view the Three Sisters. and Jamison Valley. We were not disappointed. First a quick stop for photos at Honeymooners Bridge.

Tracey with stunning scenery at Honeymooners Bridge behind her

Next to see the Three Sisters

The view across the valley to Scenic World

We were intending to visit Scenic World but the Skyway was not operating so we decided to defer that for another day. So, after a quick breakfast at the local cafe, it was a drive to Leura to visit the Leura Cascades. The scenery was stunning.

A cave formed from a fossilised tree – Tracey recalled visiting many years earlier!

The beautiful rainforest provided a shady walk down to the main cascades

Where the waters plunge into the Jamison Valley

A Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo surveys the valley

The morning concluded with a visit to the quaint village of Leura – a mecca for both tourists and locals alike. Tracey was in her element with all the boutiques and gift shops. Several potential purchases were identified.

When in the Blue Mountains, a visit to the Hydro Majestic Hotel complex is a must. We drove the 5kms from Katoomba to Medlow Bath to enjoy our pre-booked High Tea. We ordered one of each of the Wintergarden and Eastern High Teas to share. Coupled these with a glass of bubbly. The scenery from our windowside table was magnificent!

The entrance to the Wintergarden Room for High Tea

The room decked out for a Christmas in July theme

A visit to the Carrington Hotel in Katoomba is a must. In winter, they serve a fabulous mulled wine. Sat on the balcony, enjoying the wine and crisp air.

Unlocking the door to the mulled wine bar

A night in with a great pizza from the Station Bar, a movie and great company

Celebrating the Australia Day Long Weekend

With a hot weekend forecast, we set out in a caravan to #BroadwaterTouristPark at Labrador on the Gold Coast. Upon arrival we parked the van – near perfect with Tracey driving and Frank directing. After setting up, we were ready for a weekend of celebrating.

To cool off we had a swim in the pool, followed by a quick dip in the Broadwater. Nibbles on the grass followed by dinner with Chantelle, Simon, Min and Joonie.

Saturday morning, Tracey and Frank set off on a bike ride from the caravan park to the Spit. A total of 18.5km return.

Back to the caravan park for morning tea with Frank’s sister Jan.

Another swim in the afternoon to cool off.

Saturday night we were joined by our friends Tony and Jacinta, who live at Main Beach, for a traditional Aussie barbecue. Min’s friend Dante, also joined in.

The girls – Jacinta, Tracey, Chantelle and Joonie

At the barbecue – Tony, Joonie, Tracey, Frank, Jacinta, Chantelle

On Sunday, we ventured to the Galaxy restaurant at Southport for a sumptuous seafood platter, washed down with a couple of fine ales.

Another bike ride for Tracey and Frank, this time to Runaway Bay and return, a leisurely 8km ride.

We rounded off the day, having dinner with Simon, Chantelle and the kids., and a game of Smart Ass. A great night had by all.

Monday morning was pack up day and return to Brisbane.

Cunnamulla River Lights and Roma – Easter in the Country, South West Queensland April 2025

Savannahlander July 2024

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