Day 1
Monday 5th February 2024
Brisbane to Tokyo
Japan for two weeks, with fellow travel companions, Tina and Dave Murray. We met up in the Virgin Lounge. Frank had a little event as were heading to the plane – he had a fall in the lounge. What had happened was that his right shoelace had caught on the stud of his left shoe, almost as if he was shackled – and he toppled straight over! He was not hurt, as he said only his pride.
It was supposed to be simple! 8.30am Virgin flight to Cairns, them onto Tokyo. It was not to be! As we landed in Cairns, we received the news that our connecting flight to Tokyo had been cancelled- we heard it was because that particular plane couldn’t land in the snow! But who knows! We walked to the international airport to find what was planned for us. Standing in the queue we heard the next flight for us was going to be in two days time!
Thankfully, because we are gold frequent flyers ( and Dave and Tina were on the same booking number) , we were offered a flight to Sydney at 2.45pm, then direct to Tokyo with Air Nippon, flying out at 9.45pm. Not what we had hoped for – an overnight flight is never appealing, plus it was 3 hours longer. But… it meant we would only miss out on the cooking class we had planned for 9.30 the next morning. So Brisbane to Cairns, Cairns to Sydney, Sydney to Tokyo…nothing like taking the scenic route! Annoyingly, we couldn’t use the Singapore Lounge in Sydney as it was closed. The signage directed us to go to Air New Zealand’s lounge, but they said Virgin is not part of their agreement. Very frustrating. Found our way into the American Express lounge instead, where a gin and tonic and a beer, a bite to eat and a shower – in that order – were keenly welcomed!
Day 2
Tuesday 6th February 2024okyo
1-4 degrees, drizzle, snow flurries
We landed at 5.00am, went through all the usual arrival processes, in the expected efficient Japanese manner. Just as important, all our bags arrived with us! Always a great relief, especially with all the changes we had had a! We were very happy to see our little Japanese man at the arrival lounge with our name on the placard.
Close to 30 minutes drive from Haneda airport to the Richmond Hotel in Asakusa. That wasn’t incident free either…. the service manager said we were staying across the road at the Premier Richmond Hotel. So we trapsed across the road, through the sludgy snow, with our bags, only to be told that we were staying at the original hotel! Back we go, and sure enough, we were staying there. They even had a pack with our tickets and modem waiting for us! Not quite sure what that was all about.
Anyway, we got to our rooms – the description was cosy, and cosy it was! About the size of a shoebox! But that’s Tokyo for you! And we were just in time for breakfast … Frank is always hungry, so he was in luck!
Once refreshed (a 40 minute catnap can work wonders), we were ready to have an explore of the area around the hotel. We had been here a couple of times before, but still enjoyed the beautiful temple, and watching the geisha girls stroll past. The white snow gave it an extra layer of beauty. There was a flurry of snow while we were enjoying the scenes.
We had tickets for Team Lab at 2.30pm, so we made our way there…first a train, then a bus, with a coffee at the end.
Teamlab Planets is an art facility that utilizes digital technology and was established by teamLab and DMM.com. TeamLab Planets is a museum where you walk through water, and a garden where you become one with the flowers. It comprises 4 large-scale artwork spaces and 2 gardens created by art collective teamLab.
In one room we had to walk barefoot through a pool, with images of fish swimming around. The artworks change under the presence of people, blurring the perception of boundaries between the self and the works.
The flower garden was amazing- live orchids were suspended from the ceiling, yet were going up and down – we sat below the plants enjoying the feeling of being part of the flower garden. It was all amazing! Just loved it!
Next stop, Shinjuku. Again , we have been here a couple of times before, but the neon lights and constant activity never cease to amaze. We found little restaurant down some stairs, and thoroughly enjoyed an eggplant, zucchini and Hokkaido beef pasta dish … no, not traditional Japanese, but often it’s what you can find when you need it! And not expensive! $40 for two meals and two drinks. Next a bar, for another drink. Just so many restaurants and bars- I’m sure you could go to a different one every day and still never get through them all in a lifetime.
We did a walking tour of Shinjuku district at 7pm with a guide (Get Your Guide) – he was fabulous. Here we discovered the vibrant night life of Shinjuku’s entertainment district, Kabukichow, where we watched the area come alive with a kaleidoscope of neon lights and many sounds. Once a red light district, it is now a multi faceted entertainment precinct. We witnessed the “catchers” trying to lure people into the boy/girl bars, also heard about the boy hosts… all a bit over my head!
Then there were many bars. Omoide Yokocho or Memory Lane, also known as Piss Alley was a maze of tiny bars. Izakayas are Japanese bars – the guide described them as places where you “drink a lot and eat a little”. There are drinking sessions which go from 5-7pm, then 7-9pm , and finally 9-11pm – just in time for the train cut off at midnight. The bars are tiny! People squeeze in along the bar. Chicken yakatori is a traditional food served here.
The Golden Gai is another bar lane – the bars are even smaller. Some have cover charges, others don’t. The guide was very entertaining telling us stories of when you miss the last train, what you can do until they start again still 5am. Also where you can buy a new shirt and tie if you want to go straight to work.
Hanozono shrine was on our way to the last bar area, the Rainbow area. Saw the bar where Freddy Mercury spent three nights enjoying himself. We certainly witnessed a fascinating blend of traditional and contemporary Japanese nightlife.
It was another two trains back to our hotel. By the time we got back at 11pm, we were exhausted. We had been on the go for two days with very little sleep… and yes we did we sleep well that night – even on the very hard bed!
Day 3
Wednesday 7th February 2024
Tokyo to Yamanochi
-1 to 3 degrees, sunny
We woke to see the sun – beautiful to see! All refreshed after our sleep, we walked the 1.6 kms to Ueno station where we then caught the Shinkansen to Nagano (1.5 hours), then the Snow Monkey Express train (40 minutes) to Yudanaka Station. (Yudanaka is an area within Yamanochi). It was snowing when we arrived – beautiful! Short taxi ride (only 800 metres, but all uphill) to our ryokan Biyu no Yado – it means beautiful hot spring inn. We had stayed here last time.
After our lovely warm welcome, we settled into our traditional guest rooms – no beds of course, just the very short table with chairs on the tatami mat.
Out we ventured, for a walk around Yamanochi town. I could remember some of the streets and buildings from our last visit. We were searching for an open bar – we did find one, but the guy behind the counter clipping his nails was enough to put me off( he continued to do so while we were thinking about what to have), so we ended up going back to the hotel to have a drink. There was a spectacular view there anyway, overlooking the snow capped mountains and the valley below with its sweet little houses/buildings with snow capped roofs, and snow on all the trees.
Beer and spirits seem very inexpensive in Japan. Spirits are 600-700 yen ie $7-$8. Beers are $6-$8. Wine can be cheap, but not always very nice quality. Still working on that one.
Time to hit the hot water springs – the boys went one way, and Tina and I went the other (men and women bathe separately). There were 3 pools, including one outdoor one with gorgeous views of the mountains and town. The water temperatures of up to 40 degrees – they get very hot after a while.
Feeing very relaxed, we dressed into our yakatas, with jackets, for dinner in the tatami room. We did have western style tables which was a plus (it gets harder and harder to get down to the floor the older you get!)
Our traditional Kaiseki multi course meal was delicious- this highly aesthetic dining experience is both a visual and gastronomic feast. So many courses I lost count! The sashimi was divine, we also had wagyu beef cooked in hot broth at our table place then dipped in egg (sukiyaki) , shiitake mushrooms (spectacularly presented) cooked on a little burner tepanyaki style, baked trout served in cute individual bamboo oven, and so many accompanying condiments. We had no idea what we were eating half the time, however it was all amazing, and the presentation was second to none. Dessert was equally amazing – a jelly set into a citrus fruit, along with other specialties.
Back to our room to find the table and chairs moved aside to make room for our beds on the tatami mat. The mattresses (Japanese futons or shikibuton) were quite firm, but comfortable. The rice filled pillows, not so. We turned the heater off as it was like a sauna inside. It was surprising warm all night, in spite of the temperature going down to -5 degrees outside.
Day 4
Thursday 8th February 2024
Yamanochi
-5 – 2 degrees, sunny
Snow monkey day!
A traditional Japanese breakfast, again with many courses – fruit, fish, egg, and all the varying side dishes. Miso soup and rice are standard accompaniments to every meal.
Next it was off to Jigokudani Monkey Park. The Jigokudani monkey park, covered with snow almost one-third of the year, is home to Japan’s famous hot-spring-bathing snow monkeys and has become a major attraction. The hotel shuttle dropped us off at the entrance. It was then a 1.6 walk to the monkeys – not as easy as it sounds! Some of the path was quite icy – I slipped right at the start, so lucky we were prepared with our crampons. Once we attached those to our boots, it made it a little easier to walk, and safer.
The Japanese macaques, more commonly referred to as snow monkeys, go to the valley during the winter, foraging elsewhere in the national park during the warmer months. The monkeys descend from the steep clifts and forest to sit in the warm waters of the onsen (hot springs), and return to the security of the forests in the evenings. However, since the monkeys are fed by park attendants, they are in the area of the hot springs all the year round.
The monkeys are so cute. We had seen them before, but last time it was fall, and they weren’t in the actual hot springs. This time they were huddled together in the pool enjoying the warmth. Some were lined up sitting on the warm pipes which takes water to the local resorts.
We did the walk back to the entrance, then continued to walk the 2.7 kms to our hotel. It was all downhill, and we enjoyed walking through the back streets, past all the public bathhouses, and foot spas. We had lunch at an authentic local Japanese restaurant not far from the station- we both had vegetable dishes, one soup, one stir fry, which were deliciously fresh. Tina and I tried the local plum wine, which although a little sweet, was very refreshing.
At 5pm we had the private rooftop hot tub booked. Great experience. It was -1 degrees outside, and 42 degrees in the tub. The hard part was getting undressed, and washing first. Once in the tub, it was sensational – enjoying the sunset and the view of the snow capped mountains, with a glass of French Cabernet Sauvignon that we had purchased earlier at a local wine store. We had actually walked almost 18000 steps today, so the warm water was very relaxing and invigorating to our legs.
Another multi course kaiseki dinner – showing off many different cooking techniques, flavours and textures. More sashimi (my favourite), chunks of wagyu beef to cook on our burners tepanyaki style, udon noodles, plus an assortment of condiments. The presentation of the food on the plates is truly a work of art, each dish presented more beautifully than the last. Dessert was a pie with a flummery type filling – very light.
Feeling very relaxed and satisfied, we finished our bottle of wine, and headed off to slumberland.. on the floor.
Day 5
Friday 9th February 2024
Yamanochi to Sapporo
-5 – -7 degrees, sunny
Travel day today.
But first another traditional Japanese breakfast- more fruit, little plates of various delights, fish (not sure what type – the lovely little wait staff have very little English, and we have absolutely no Japanese!) This time we cooked an egg on ham on the burner. Green tea. How we’d love a coffee!
Local train this time, from Yudanaka to Nagano. The highlight of this trip was the heated seats! Being local, we did stop at every stop to Nagano though.
It was a tight train change at Nagano – only 12 minutes to get from one platform to the next, for the Shinkansen to Tokyo. But, we made it! The worst part there was no time to stop for a coffee, and no service on board, so by the time we got to Tokyo, we were desperate!
Two little Japanese men in long black coats met us at the train platform, with our name on a sign. Doesn’t that make you feel important! A brief explanation and they directed us straight to a cafe to get takeaway coffees – our knights in shining armour! We were then whisked away, in two vans, to Haneda airport to board our flight to Sapporo. A 90 minute flight to New Chitose airport in Sapporo.
Next, how to get to our hotel… turns out a taxi fare was approximately $200. Lucky we found that out before we bundled ourselves into one! So, a train ride to Sapporo station it was – an hour’s journey, and only $11 each! Plus a very short taxi ride for $10 to the Mercure Hotel. The hotel was in a great location – in Susakino, Sapporo’s entertainment quarter. With karaoke joints, bars, restaurants, and coffee shops, this area is Japan’s biggest centre of nightlife outside of Tokyo.
It had been a long travel day , but we were keen to see the Snow Festival. Only two blocks from the hotel was one of the Snow Festival areas. Here was a huge display of sculptures made from ice. It went for at least 6 blocks with sculptures down both sides. It was amazing what the artists could do, and so beautifully lit up at night.
Dinner… we found a tiny bar type restaurant along the street which served authentic Japanese food, cooked in front of us. For $20, we had the most delicious gyozas I have ever tasted, a curry, and vegetable noodle dish. All so fresh! And cheap! But no drinks.
Not far down the road we found a real bar, that did serve drinks. We enjoyed an after dinner drink, and some people watching, even saw a “catcher” in action! We would have stayed longer but the cigarette smoke was getting to us. We had tried some other bars first, but the smoke sent us in other directions.
Time to head back to the hotel. It was starting to get cold, and the ice on the road was quite slippery.
Day 6
Saturday 10th February 2024
Sapporo
-9 to -1 degrees
A nice buffet breakfast – all sorts of delights and delicacies- then we were met by our guide for the day, Akiri.
Starting at Odori Park – in summer it is a green oasis running the length of the main street, but at this time of year it is the main site for the ice and snow sculptures that make up the Snow Festival – we walked around around admiring the craftsmanship. Plenty of street food running down the edge of the displays, selling everything from reindeer kebabs, to eel soup, to candies on a stick. Grilled mackerel and Sapporo Miso Ramen are the local specialties.
Next, our guide took us to Okurayama Ski Jump – it was a short train and bus ride. The Okurayama Ski Jump Stadium was one of the competition venues for the 1972 Sapporo Winter Olympic Games, and of Eddie the Eagle fame. We caught the cable car up to the Okurayama Observation Lounge at 307 m above ground level, where we enjoyed breathtaking panoramas expanding from Sapporo’s city center, including the iconic Odori Park, where we had just come from. While we were there, there were some junior ski jumpers practicing their jumps – they were starting at the 135m point. It was fantastic to watch.
A nice coffee/ lunch break then off to the brewery. Hokkaido is the birthplace of beer in Japan. Sapporo Beer, one of the oldest and most popular beer brands in the country, has been brewed in Sapporo since 1877. The Sapporo Beer Museum was opened in 1987 in a former brewery and introduces the history of beer in Japan and the process of beer making. Afterwards we had the obligatory beer tastings – Kaitakushi, Classic(only sold in Hokkaido), and Black Label.
Next, the Sapporo TV Tower. Built in 1957, it is a 147.2 metre high TV tower with an observation deck at a height of 90.38 metres. Located on the ground of Odori Park. Great views of the city from here, and back to the ski jump.
Our guide Akiri left us here, and so we were free to do a little shop browsing on the way back to the hotel. Enough opportunity for me to buy a nice rabbit bag to match my Vancouver jacket. Also a look in Uniqlo – they have a huge range of clothes, and only two thirds of the prices we pay at home. Even time for a nice afternoon tea in a lovely little tea house. Their shops are so lovely here – the shop assistants are very helpful and gentle, even though very little English is spoken in Hokkaido, and everything is presented and packaged so nicely.
Back to the hotel to drop off our goodies, rest the feet for 20 minutes while we had a glass of wine, then out to the cold to see the snow sculptures by night, and a bite to eat.
Finding somewhere to eat was challenging – thousands of restaurants around us, but many were small, and there were queues at each. We did find one, but when we sat down and studied the menu, we realised it was Chinese, but with a Japanese influence. The food was very nice and fresh though, plus they had beer and plum wine – bonus!
Out to the Snow Festival to see more sculptures – they looked spectacular lit up at night, especially the big ones. The ice was very slippery, lots of people falling over. And then, it started snowing- very fitting for the Snow Festival. A nice finale for a great day, with 27500 steps!
Day 7
Sunday 11th February 2024
Sapporo to Otaru to Sapporo
-9 to -1, snowing
We woke up to a very white morning – it had been snowing all night!
Our expedition today was a day excursion to Otaru, approximately 45 minute train ride (depending if you went rapid or local train – we did both types, and both times the train was jam packed!). The city is known for glassworks, music boxes and sake distilleries. Our first stop was Tanaka sake brewery. It was a self guided tour, followed by some sake tasting. I have to say, the sake we tasted was very nice – I have been less than impressed with sakes in have tried in the past.
We continued walking in the snow, along the narrow cleared pathways down to Saikaimachi Street – the main street lined with cafes, street food, and shops with glassware and other trinkets. The ice on the ground was so slippery – it was treacherous! I saw at least 20 people fall over!
We were looking for a coffee – plenty of cafes, but they were super crowded. Eventually settled on Le Tao Pathos, a lovely cafe, but we still had to wait almost 30 minutes for a table. By that time lunch was over and we had to settle for coffee and cake! Outside we tried some street food – wagyu croquettes plus a cheese croquette, very nice. There was an interesting fish market – huge fish heads on display, plus Arctic king crab legs (very expensive). Looked in a few glass shops (good opportunity to warm up as it was very cold outside). I bought a little glass angel to add to my Christmas angel collection.
Dinner at Iron and Stone restaurant – this had been recommended by Frank’s work colleague who lives in Otaru half of the year. Great choice – the food was delicious, and the restaurant had a great cosy feel. Hiro, the chef and owner, was very welcoming.
Next, the Lantern Festival – it runs at the same time as the Snow Festival, but the atmosphere here is far more peaceful and spiritual: candles artfully placed on top of the snow and the frozen canal that runs by the waterfront. The Otaru Snow Light Path Festival began in 1999 with the hope of creating a place for people to “feel easy, to think about things leisurely in the glow of the candlelight, and to have time to reflect on themselves forgetting a little of their bothersome daily life in a rapidly changing society”. That’s all good if it’s not too cold to stand there and reflect!!!!
Another very crowded train trip back to Sapporo, standing all the way, then a short walk back to the hotel. A nice warm shower, and time to relax.
Day 8
Monday 12th February 2024
Sapporo to Asahikawa
-9 to 0 degrees
Today is the day we pick up the car!
A bit of planning over breakfast, then the boys head off to pick up the car. Then they come back – there was a voucher they needed! So back they went… but this time they did come back with a car, a Toyota – surprise surprise! A Sienta. And all our bags fit in! So that’s a good start.
Our drive to Asahikawa was 130kms. We took the non toll roads which made the trip almost 3 hours. The roads were very icy and wet with ice walls on either side. Very pretty white scenery as we travelled – lots of snow and ice. Just like a postcard.
We had time to go to the Asahiyama Zoo before going to our accommodation. Fabulous zoo on Mount Asahiyama offering panoramic views to the city below. The zoo was well laid out, with tea lights marking the edge of the icy paths – very pretty when lit up. There were a couple of polar bears – from memory I think they came from the Assiniboine Zoo in Winnipeg. A nice penguin display with King, Gentu, Humboldt and Rockhopper penguins. Saw one lonely Japanese crane, the wild cats, chimpanzees, and a cute raccoon dog. The displays were quite compact and well laid out.
Off to the Hoshino Resort where we were staying tonight. The boys parked the car, while the girls checked in and found the lay of the land. With the staff’s minimal English, and our nil Japanese, it can take a little while to get all the information. There is a sauna and onsen here. The resort is a pre or post destination for the many skiers heading to or from the ski fields.
Finding a dinner venue proved to be interesting… the concierge gave us some directions. Not sure what happened – but we seemed to go the wrong way. Eventually found the dining precinct – it was quite obvious when we found it as it was all lit up with lights and had ice sculptures through the centre. There was a Snow Festival in Asahikawa as well – this was the last night. We didn’t go to the main event area as it was a bit far to walk, and we thought we had seen plenty of ice sculptures. When talking to someone we met later, they told us, that after the fireworks at 7.30 pm, the bobcats came in and started knocking all the sculptures down – all that work knocked to the ground!
Looking for a restaurant is never easy when there is nothing in English. There are often pictures, but we know the Japanese don’t waste anything so we prefer to know if we are eating offal or crab innards!
Before long a “catcher” caught us and took us to his restaurant upstairs in one of the buildings. We had a lovely private room with a low set table, and the hole under the table for us to put our legs under. Eventually, with the assistance of the translator app, we managed to place our orders. We all had sashimi to start with – which was divine. Frank received a nice spicy pork stir fry, Tina and I shared a chicken hot pot we cooked at the table, and when Dave’s order didn’t turn up, we questioned it – oh yes, it wasn’t available any more! Lucky we asked. Just as funny, was when Tina ordered a small beer she was told small wasn’t available, only large. Nothing like a good upsell! All in all, it was a nice meal with a few laughs along the way. And not expensive – food and drink is quite inexpensive for us Aussies.
Heading back to the hotel, we stumbled across the Food Court , which is what we were originally looking for when we first started out. Nothing like a food court as we know it. This was a gorgeous precinct with 25 tiny restaurant/bars set in a candle lit snow setting. Even had a real igloo bar. We were welcomed by the owner who was keen to get us settled into a restaurant for dinner. After explaining we’d had dinner, he said we needed dessert, of which he could really only offer ice cream.
Because he was so friendly to us, we thought we’d oblige and have an ice cream. He found a bar to accommodate us.
Well the ice cream turned into a few drinks, with a couple of friendly Australians we had just met. The Japanese girls behind the bar were just delightful, and couldn’t be more helpful or friendly. It turned into a wonderful night, but when the clock chimed 12, we called it a night. Back to the hotel – which in the end was only a block away!
Day 9
Tuesday 13th February 2024
Asahikawa to Abashiri
-3 – 6 degrees
Despite our late night, we woke at 6am. Not having made it to the sauna and onsen last night, we thought this morning would be the perfect opportunity. A lovely relaxing way to start the day. As well as the 42 degrees pool, there was a cooler “walking” pool – as the sign said, for “walking not swimming”. We followed this up with a scrumptious buffet breakfast – smoked salmon waffles were the house special. Just divine.
We hit the road at 10am. It was 300kms to Abashiri, but this gives no indication of time – it all depends on weather conditions. No fresh snow overnight so some roads were slushing parts. It was also a bit warmer today. We did make a coffee/toilet stop at Mariseepu. We looked for the scenic train, but turns out that is a summer activity!
Continued on until we got to the Okhotsk Ryu-hyo Museum and its rooftop Tentozan Observatory. This hands-on museum invited visitors into the world of drift ice and the ecosystem it supports. We saw the region’s wildlife and natural ice phenomena in the 5-screen theatre. While experiencing temperatures of -15 degrees Celsius in the drift ice room, we could swing a wet towel around, and it froze in about 30 seconds.
Close by was the Museum of Northern Peoples – a museum dedicated to the various peoples of the North, across Eurasia and the Americas. The collection includes items relating to the Sámi, Nanai, and Northwest Coast Indians, as well as the more local Okhotsk culture and Ainu. We found it very interesting, particularly the clothing exhibits, and hunting videos. The distinguishing architectural design of the museum’s main hall represents the tent style dwellings used widely across the world’s northern regions.
Tine to find our ryokan for the night – Auberge Kitano Dandan, a French Auberge infused with a traditional Japanese ryokan. It was set in a beautiful snowy location on a hillside, overlooking the valley. Our rooms were very large and comfortable. Traditional Japanese baths were on the lower level, both indoors and outside.
Dinner tonight was preceded by the news that Travis and Louise had announced their engagement! They face timed us – very exciting! I had some trouble communicating with them as I had managed to get a bout of laryngitis! But regardless, we let them know how happy we were to hear that news. Champagne to celebrate!
Back to dinner- it turned into a 2 hour, 8 course feast consisting of such delicacies as sea urchin, marinated salmon, surf clam, Tokachi beef sirloin, and more. All divine.
Day 10
Wednesday 14th February 2024
Abishiri to Utoro
-2 to 6 degrees
Breakfast was as spectacular as dinner – this time 14 courses. Some interesting flavours eg curried soup with tofu and sausage. But all very nice.
Today was our drift ice cruise on the ice breaker Aurora. Abashiri is located at a latitude of 44 degrees north, and the Sea of Okhotsk coast is the southermost point where the sea freezes. Drift ice is generated in the extremely cold northern part of the Sea of Okhotsk and grows larger as it moves south. In late January, drift ice makes a mysterious white appearance along the Okhotsk coast of Abishiri. It lasts until the end of March. The icebreaker took us through the sea filled with drift ice – amazing to think we are doing this at a latitude of 44 degrees. The drift ice resembles lotus leaves and changes its appearance with the light of the sun.
From Abishiri we decided to take an hour and a half detour and drive to Lake Akan Ainu Kotan (village). The hot spring town at Lake Akan is one of Hokkaido’s largest Ainu settlements, with around 130 individuals in 40 homes. The town offers the chance to experience Ainu culture and purchase unique folk crafts from multiple establishments. We were a little disappointed as we thought there would be a cultural museum, or that we would see the Ainu people making their crafts. Not so, it was actually a bit too commercial from what we saw. But then again, that could be a language issue. Some impressive totem poles and wood carvings on the buildings though.
Next a two and a half scenic drive to Utoro. We saw two groups of three Yezo Sika Deer on the side of the road. Apparently they are a bit of a pest for the farmers. Also a Yezo (Yezo means Hokkaido) red fox in the side of the road – it was nice and fluffy, and too quick for a photo.
We checked into Kiki Shiretoko Natural Resort, lovely spacious rooms with fabulous views over the frozen Okhotsk Sea. We had a little walk around the resort area – there was a ski slope at the top of the hill.Dinner was a buffet – actually two buffets, a Western and Japanese one. The cheese raclette was my favourite from the Western, and the lotus and mushroom dish from the Japanese side was divine.
Day 11
Day 11
Thursday 15th February 2024
Utoro
-3 to 2 degrees, cloudy and light snow
We started the day with a nice bath in the hot spring onsen. Very refreshing. Breakfast was a buffet – both Western and Japanese options. Plenty to choose from. Seafood is very prominent here. Fishermen here catch five times as many fish per head compared to other areas of Japan.
We had read about the Drift Ice Walk – is an activity that can only be experienced in the Utoro area of the Shiretoko Peninsula for 1.5 months out of the year, but all tours were booked out. With the tours you are given a winter dry suit with boots attached and you can lower into the icy water below. We decided to venture out and see if we could do our own drift ice walk. We did walk out on the edge of the ice. Quite an experience- a frozen ocean. The snow covered beach joins the icy sea water. Amazing.
Drove up to Shiretoko Nature Centre where we walked the Furepe Waterfall Trail – it was an hour’s return walk through snow and trees, very pretty. Back at the centre we watched a bear conservation film. Bears are quite prolific in this area, and there have been an increasing number of attacks in the last twelve months. These bears predominantly eat acorns and because it wasn’t a good acorn season, the bears have been venturing into town. The town is trying to improve bear/human relationships.
This afternoon we were picked up for our sea eagle spotting expedition. The Shiretoko Peninsula is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and recognized for its diverse natural landscapes and wildlife. Native to Russia, and known for its bright yellow beak and talons, the Stellar’s sea eagle migrates south to Hokkaido during the winter. This makes the Shiretoko Peninsula one of the best places to watch the eagle in the world. With body length over one meter, and two-meter wingspan, the Stellar’s eagle is a stellar sight to behold. We saw many Stellar and white winged eagles, also saw more Sika deer, including a farm where captured wild deer are held until they are slaughtered. It was very cold – we were freezing by the end so it was straight to the onsen when we got back to the hotel. The 42 degree bath and sauna helped us thaw out.
Another buffet dinner with both Western and Japanese choices. Plenty of options, plus a nice dessert selection.
Day 12
Friday 16th February 2024
Utoro to Kushiro
-11 to -4 degrees, snowing
We had snow overnight, and we were keen to get away early. We had 150 kms to drive from Utoro to Tsurui – it was indicated a two and a half hour drive but we were unsure how long it would take with the current weather conditions. One coffee stop on the way, and we were there by 11.45am.
Time for a little walk around Tsurui – a cute little town. We found a little cafe with a fabulous art gallery. The owner made us a delicious honey and lemon tea, served in tea cups with cranes pictured inside. He had cute little wooden bird houses hanging in the tree outside the window where we sat.
Time for our Tancho crane tour. Uki was our guide for the next 4 hours.
The Tancho has been called a bird of good omen and respected by the Ainu people. The red crown crane averages 1.5 meters, a wing span of 2 meters and a body weight of 7-12 kilograms. It lives as a non-migratory bird in the eastern part of Hokkaido, and the damp ground of eastern Hokkaido, especially the heart of the Kushiro Marsh, is its nesting ground.
It was thought that due to indiscriminant hunting the Tancho had been eradicated, but in 1924, twenty birds were discovered living in the Kushiro Marsh. At once a joint government-village protection operation was set up, and a food distribution program was begun by the local people. Due to the warm affection, the birds numbers have increased year on year. Numbers are now at 1900 – so a great success story. We went to two feeding areas – Tsurui Ito Tancho Sanctuary and Tsurumidai. Both gave us fantastic views of these majestic birds. Even saw a short mating dance – February is their mating season. Oh they are so beautiful.
Uki took us then to the Otowa Bridge – the river below is where the birds spend their night in winter. They actually sleep standing on one leg, in the water, which, because of the thermal springs, is warmer than the outside temperature.
We then drive through Japan’s largest wetland, Kushiro Shitsugen, which covers 29,000 hectares. This is where the cranes come to nest in springtime. Red fox and deer were seen as we travelled through. We went up to Hokuto Lookout to view the setting sun over the marshland below. Beautiful mountains and volcanoes in the horizon. -8 degrees at the top!
Thirty minutes drive from here was our hotel – the Crown Hills hotel. It was certainly a come down after the luxurious hotels we had stayed in during the past week. Our allocated rooms were less than shoebox size! With a bit of negotiating, and with very little English spoken, we managed to get rooms twice the size on a lower floor. We were much happier with that. At least we could fit our bags in!
Straight out to dinner – we needed a drink after the long day’s drive on icy roads, and the debacle with the rooms. A couple of blocks away was a wonderful little restaurant where we had the most divine sashimi, plus a Japanese bbq at the table – lamb and vegetables. Also some kimchi. A few drinks later and we had forgotten the drive, and were thinking how lucky we were to see the majestic red crown cranes.
Day 13
Saturday 17th February 2024
Kushiro
-12 to -1 degrees
Free day in Kushiro – what to do? Kushiro is the central city of eastern Hokkaido, and the Kushiro River flowing through the city center has fostered people’s social life and regional culture. There is a rich surrounding natural environment including tidelands and reed marshes, but we had done that the day before.
We caught the bus to the Kushiro City Museum. That took a bit of translating, but we got there! It was only 2.9 kms away – we could easily have walked, but because the ice is so slippery, we thought we’d experience the bus. The building represents a Japanese Crane spreading its wings. The displays inside the museum were quite compact.
I really enjoyed the Ainu people exhibit. Most of the Ainu people lived in Hokkaido, some lived in Sakhalin, the Kuril Islands and north eastern Honshu. They survived by hunting, fishing, gathering plants, and farming in warmer climates. Although the Ainu people were influenced by Honshu people and the northern races, they developed their own unique culture and practices, language and religion.
Also had a great Tancho crane display. They had a nest there which was two metres wide and 30 cms high. A chick leaves the nest in three days with its parents.
We found the return bus stop, and bus, and headed our way to Fisherman’s Wharf. MOO is a unique building located on the waterfront. It is a tourist facility consisting of restaurants and shops. Can’t say a lot was happening – probably much busier in summer. We had coffee at the EGG (ever green garden). Next to these buildings is the Nusamai Bridge – a nice bridge with romantic street lamps and bronze statues.
We walked through the restaurant precinct on our way back to our hotel. Kushiro seems to be more of a transit city, not a lot to do here. We drove to a shopping centre for a few hours in the afternoon, mainly to fill in a bit of time
We did have a lovely dinner in the evening, back in the restaurant precinct. After wandering around for a short while, trying to decipher the menus, we found just the place! We were referred to Robata by another restaurant owner when we asked her for a seafood bbq. We walked in the little restaurant, such a cozy space, table and chairs around the fire pit. So, we found what we were looking for – Robata-yaki, a type of BBQ cuisine popularized in Kushiro City, which involves grilling fresh seafood and vegetables over charcoal. Nanna, ages 87, sat over the coals cooking the most divine food. Ainu people have used this method of cooking for many years. Nanna’s daughter, and granddaughter, who both spoke great English, served at the table surrounding the fire pit.
We were a bit nervous at first as there was no pricing on the menu. Starting with salmon and scallop sashimi (we had to have one last serve of sashimi), we studied the menu. Guided by the granddaughter, we ordered the squid in miso and ginger sauce – hands down the best thing I’ve put in my mouth this week. It was divine. Also had eggplant, asparagus, potato, and shiitake mushroom cooked on the bbq. Couldn’t rate the place highly enough. Using only experience and know how to cook foods to perfection, the food was exquisite and the atmosphere very unique.
Because we wanted to thank the other restaurant owner, we went back to her restaurant for a drink. Had a lovely hour drinking beer and sake, and chatting to the other young patrons around the bar – they could speak English quite well. The owner gave us a dish with rice, beans and salt – apparently it is a dish used for festive occasions. I have no idea what it is called, but it was very nice. We’d had a fabulous time for the last night of our holiday.
Day 14
Sunday 18th February 2024
Kushiro to Haneda to Cairns to Brisbane
-8 degrees when we awoke , getting to 29 degrees in Brisbane!
Checked out at 11am, drove to the Kushiro airport and dropped off the car. Our plane wasn’t until 2.10pm so we had a bit of sitting around. Finally boarded and flew to Haneda- where we had more sitting around. The baggage checkin didn’t open for 2 hours. Checked in the bags, got through passport control, and then couldn’t get into the Amex club. Frustrating! There’s always a catch with the lounges. More sitting around, then the Virgin flight to Cairns. I have to say that would have to be the most basic international flight I have flown – no food or drinks (except water, tea and coffee), no blanket or pillow. Not sure I’d fly international with them again.
Arrived into Cairns at 7am. Chloe and Charlie visited us at the airport which was really nice. It filled in some time while we waited for our last flight from Cairns to Brisbane – which was delayed. Finally made it into
Brisbane by midday. It had been a long 24 hours. Good to be home!
Highlights of our Japan trip
. The majestic red town cranes – so beautiful to see them in their natural habitat.
. The amazing sea/drift ice phenomenon
. The Ice Festival – amazing to think that such intricate structures were built by talented craftsmen, and then knocked down at the end of the festival.
. The cheeky snow monkeys sitting in the hot springs looked so cute – very busy with their preening rituals
.Japanese ryokans are always a fabulous experience, right from the sleeping space to the eating experience to the relaxing onsens
. Food and drinks were relatively inexpensive comped to home
. The Japanese people are so polite and friendly- they can never do enough for you.
. Snow looks so pretty… but driving on snow is stressful, and walking on ice can be treacherous!
. The toilets are second to none- in the world! The heated seats and piped music are heavenly!
Glammy Goes Global 