Bali
Day 17
Sunday 9th August
Labuan Bajo to Ubud
23-29 degrees, sunny
After seventy minutes in the air, we landed in Denpasar, Bali – every Aussie’s dream holiday destination. I had been twice before, but Frank was a virgin! We met our driver Wayan (all Balinese first born males are named Wayan), and set off for Ubud. Ninety minutes of Bali traffic and we arrived at Villa Tranquillum House where we met up with Rick and Mygyn – our travel buddies for the next week! It was so good to see them.
Our accommodation for the next three nights in Ubud was Villa Tranquillum House – a stunning modern sanctuary where contemporary design meets Ball’s enchanting jungle embrace. This spectacular 2-bedroom retreat with its seamless blend of indoor-outdoor living, creates an immersive tropical experience that feels both sophisticated and authentically Balinese.
The two elegantly appointed bedrooms at Villa Tranquillum House face each other across a serene shallow pool, where a floating Buddha head statue creates a meditative focal point. Each bedroom featured an en-suite bathroom complete with an outdoor bathtub. Just stunning.
The heart of the villa had a fully-equipped kitchen with sleek bar stools, while the covered dining area under the canopy was surrounded by jungle whispers. The sunken living room, adorned with a striking vertical garden, flowed seamlessly to two inviting chaise lounges beneath a poolside umbrella. Just one little hiccup – there was a water leak in the sunken lounge – apparently just discovered that morning! If you saw all the bog there, you may not believe that. Anyway, it really wasn’t going to worry us too much as there was plenty of other sitting areas.
The T-shaped pool began indoors and gracefully extends outside – stepping stones lead to the centerpiece daybed… all just lovely!
Tonight we were seriously spoilt, with chefs arriving at our villa to prepare a delicious feast just for us. Chicken satays to start, followed by melt-in-your-mouth beef rendang and a sweet potato cake for dessert. All this without leaving the villa! We tucked into our decadent dinner beside the pool, surrounded by the warm tropical air. Now this is holiday living!
Day 18
Monday 10th August
Ubud
21-28 degrees, sunny
More spoiling – breakfast prepared by our chefs! Eggs any which way, fresh fruit and juice. Great way to start the day.
Febri our driver picked us up at 9.30 for our first day of exploring Ubud. Starting in what was once a royal capital, Sukawati, is now known for its modern market and its specialised artisans, busily working in small roadside workshops. We visited a silver making store, a wood carving artisan and an art gallery. Very talented craftsman.
Onto Sukawati Temple – one of the cultural and spiritual landmarks in Ubud area, reflecting the deep-rooted traditions of Balinese Hinduism. Known locally as Pura Sukawati, this temple showcases the classic Balinese architectural style, with beautifully carved stone gates, detailed reliefs, and sacred courtyards. Once we were in our sarong attire, a guide gave us an informative tour of the temple.
The temple is an important place of worship for the local community, where daily offerings and ceremonies are held to honor the gods and maintain harmony between humans, nature, and the spiritual world.
Lunch stop next, to Bebek Uma Menuh, an authentic and uniqe restaurant set in amongst the rice paddies. It offered Asian, International dishes and traditional Balinese food. I had a mango and prawn salad which was so refreshing and tasty. We were all very happy with our choices.
On to the Monkey Forest Ubud. Dating back to the 14th century, it has been regarded as a sacred place, housing spiritual forces and guardian spirits. The monkeys, seen as sacred animals, symbolize both protection and mischief. In the 20th century, the Monkey Forest gained recognition as a vital conservation area. Efforts were made to preserve its natural beauty, promote responsible tourism, and raise awareness about the cultural and environmental significance. Today, it stands as a cherished sanctuary, where visitors can connect with the monkeys and enjoy observing their behaviours.
That had filled in the day for us, so back to the villa we go – only that is not fast! To go ten kilometres took almost an hour – the traffic is something else here. Between the narrow roads and all the motor bikes/scooters, the cars just don’t have a chance.
I had booked dinner at Tanarasa Restaurant- it was only two kms from where we were staying . Getting there proved a challenge. We got a Grab – he eventually found us, but then I mustn’t have put the exact address in. So after we worked out where we should have been going, we turned around, getting there twenty minutes later than we needed to. All about communication!!! Anyway Tanarasa proved to be a good choice – a small haven perched above a cliff, where you can enjoy an iconic view of Ubud’s lush jungle. The menu is inspired by the culinary traditions of Indonesia using island-sourced ingredients as a tribute to Bali’s rich natural landscape. The seafood platter was very nice. And now that we knew where we were going, it was only three minutes back to the villa!
Day 19
Tuesday 11th August
Ubud
21-28 degrees, sunny
A floating breakfast today – our chefs prepared our breakfast and served it on huge round, beautifully decorated trays, which they floated in the pool. It was a touch too cold for us squibs to get in, so we sat on the edge to eat it. Such a fun idea!
Another 9.30am pickup, and we soon find we’re in the thick of Ubud’s lively traffic again! We had a couple of hours to explore the markets before strolling down Hanoman Street, a vibrant, narrow lane lined with shops and cafés, recommended by our driver. And, of course, Mygyn and I somehow managed to find a few bargains along the way!
Next a long lunch at Bebek Tebasari – an experience not to be missed. Our Bali frequent flyer friends, Andrew and Lisa, recommended this venue to us. A traditional bamboo gazebo built over a shimmering fish pond filled with huge koi was just the place to enjoy traditional Balinese food. It took a while to get settled and get down onto the mat- in fact, not everyone made it down onto the mat! But it was worth the effort. Crafted with natural bamboo, each gazebo offered a cozy private space where we could unwind, sit back, watch the colorful koi swim peacefully right beneath us, and enjoy our meals – the Balinese roast duck was delicious. So were the cocktails. How to while away the hours…
Back to the villa — no dinner tonight, just pure indulgence! We each had a massage from the most amazing mobile masseurs. I also enjoyed a luxurious body scrub, followed by a long soak in the outdoor tub. Needless to say, after all that pampering, settling in for the night was remarkably easy!
Day 20
Wednesday 12th August
Ubud to Mara River Resort
22-29 degrees, sunny and humid
11am checkout, so we could have a leisurely breakfast and a slow pack up, before our driver arrived. We were still relaxed from our massages the night before!
Only a 50 minute drive to Mara River Resort. Boasting a lovely view of Mount Agung in the distance, the property is embraced by pristine nature and rare tranquility. At the same time, this is a resort where you can experience an adventure where you can get close to wild animals. What a treat this was going to be!
After checking in, and because we were there three hours before our room was ready, we were directed to go on the animal safari. The special safari bus took us on a journey through the open-zoo giving us close encounters with many wild animals in their natural habitat. From the ride through roaming Sumatran Tiger and Elephants in the jungle of Sumatra, to the hippos and cheetahs in Lake Manyara, this journey offered a unique safari adventure to explore the life of more than 100 animal species.
Back for lunch, where we watched the lions interacting through the glass windows while we ate. Tsavo Lion Restaurant allows you to have a close encounter with real wildlife.
Time to see our rooms – amazing! We had booked the Twiga deluxe room – this room is located on the second floor with a balcony which overlooks the African animals roaming the park. What an escape from everyday reality – giraffes, wilderbeasts, zebras and a rhinoceros could all be seen from our room.
No time to rest, we had shows to see – the tiger show, the jungle show and the elephant show. All wonderful shows with very strong and positive conservation messages delivered throughout the presentations.
Dinner at the Lion restaurant- we had seats right up against the window so we could watch the lions get fed while we ate our meals. How surreal.
After dinner was the night show – an African fire dance. Again, excellent.
As if we hadn’t seen enough for the day, we had a night safari where we went in caged trucks and actually fed some of the animals. The highlight was the tiger jumping on the roof of the truck! This was truly an unforgettable adventure. Such a wonderful day.
Day 21
Thursday 13th August
Mara River Resort to Candidasa
23-28 degrees, sunny, humid
Breakfast with lions this morning! Again, right outside our window while we eat. The breakfast buffet was a wonder of culinary delights – the sweets selection were all decorated with various forms of animal caricatures.
We check out of the lodge, and get ready for the next part of the adventure. The amazement just kept coming! There was also the water side of the park — dolphin shows, seal shows and a full-on Jungle Odyssey. Again, all with great animal conservation messages. I fell in love with the panther – his coat was gorgeous
By this stage, we were wondering what they could possibly come up with next. Well… it was Varuna, the underwater dining experience where culinary excellence meets oceanic wonder. A spectacular theatrical experience with an immersive experience.
The Varuna Show unfolds a captivating story. Following the journey of a young prince, we see a child of land and sea, discovering his inner strength and royal destiny. Amidst majestic sea creatures and armed with a mystical royal necklace, his adventure beneath the waves is an odyssey like no other. The costumes were spectacular and the aquarium backdrop with live mermaids swimming was a sight to behold.
Our meals were a gastronomical delight and so beautifully presented. The whole experience was simply brilliant.
We then had a mad rush to get back to the lodge reception to meet our driver who was taking us to Candidasa – less than an hour away. Onto the next chapter of our Bali stay.
Villa Sasoon in Candidasa was our home for the next three nights. This little oasis had two bungalows, each with their own soaking tub and an outdoor shower, plus a huge central kitchen, lounge and dining area, all surrounding the pool. It was lovely.
Once we had settled in, we went for a walk down the main street dodging the broken footpaths, the roaming dogs and the monkey that jumped out from a temple entrance. Now that we had our bearings we could work out where to go, what to do. No dinner tonight – we were still so full from our lunch.
Day 22
Friday 14th August
Candidasa
23-28 degrees, sunny
Out to explore Candidasa area today – Wayan picked us up at 9am after we’d enjoyed another lovely breakfast cooked by the villa staff.
Bali isn’t just beaches, temples, and beach clubs. It’s also home to some fascinating traditional villages. Wayan took us to Tenganan Village which was only fifteen minutes away from our villa. This place is different from the usual tourist spots – it’s a living community where the Bali Aga people still follow centuries-old customs. Here they keep their unique weaving traditions alive – the gringsing or geringsing, double ikat textiles are woven in only 3 places in the world. We saw some lovely table runners. The villagers maintain the village in a layout that hasn’t changed much in generations. There are 759 people living in the village, 245 families, and no class system. Water was still collected from a well at the bottom of the hill. Very interesting.
Onto Taman Ujung complex, which is just south of Amlapura and dates back to 1921, when the last king of Karangasem completed the construction of a grand water palace. The main structure, Bale Gili was built as a place of rest for the king and his family during leisure and recreational activities. Bale Gili also functioned as a venue for receiving and hosting important guests of the kingdom. Largely destroyed by a 1979 earthquake, it has been restored over the years. Manicured gardens surround large pools, bridges and pavilions – we found the gardens quite beautiful as we walked around them.
From here we went north west to Tirta Gangga (Water of the Ganges) – the site of a taman (garden) built for the enjoyment of the last raja of Karangasem in 1946. The 1.2-hectare water palace serves as a fascinating reminder of the old Bali. The 11 tiered Nawa Sanga fountain bears traces of the influence of the Chinese architects who helped design the garden. I loved the stepping stone ponds with the huge koi fish swimming around. Tirta Gangga is the site of a holy temple, some great water features and some of the best views of rice fields and the sea beyond in east Bali.
After a small bite to eat at one of the restaurants at the gardens we headed to Bali Asli, where we were about to experience Balinese cooking. Located in the green foothills of Gunung Agung near Amlapura, the farming village of Gelumpang is where famed Australian chef Penelope Williams runs Bali Asli, offering a world-class culinary experience. Asli is the Balinese term for something created in the traditional way, and there’s much that’s traditional here. From 3-6pm, us chefs were busy at work! The real chef, Dewo, had us chopping and cooking in no time. We made fish baked in banana leaves, nasi goring, chicken satays and pumpkin cake – all were delicious. Great experience cooking while looking out over the banana plantations and rice paddies. We all thoroughly enjoyed the experience , and even more so, the eating!
Back to the villa we enjoyed a nightcap and a chat before bed.
Day 23
Saturday 15th August
Candidasa
22-28 degrees, sunny, humid
Breakfast today at Beachscape Spa and Resort next door to our resort. Lovely spot overlooking the beach.
Being on the coast we thought we had better do a beach visit. We asked Wayan to take us to White Beach, also called Virgin Beach, a twenty minute drive away. It is advertised as an actual white sand beach on an island where almost all beaches are tan, brown or charcoal – I think some poetic license has been used there as the sand is quite grey in colour. However the long crescent of sand backed by coconut palms makes for a fine day out if you wanted a beach day. We hired some sun beds under an umbrella and enjoyed a swim in the water. After an hour with the heat, we decided that was enough, and headed back to the villa.
Now we had some time to explore the area around the villa. We walked along the road in the opposite direction and couldn’t believe the number of cafes, restaurants and spas we came across – we had no idea all these places were hidden away. There was a diving centre at the end of the road. Ganesh Lodge with its lovely gardens, looked like the ideal place to stop for a mango lassi, a Bintang, and a bite to eat.
Refreshed, we walked in the other direction. The dress shops were nothing to write home about. But a pedicure at one of the spas was! Time for a cocktail – happy hour at Al Dente restaurant. Two cocktails for 150K, or $12.50! Another happy hour cocktail at Beachscape before heading out up dinner.
Vincent’s restaurant had come recommended – it had International and Balinese cuisine, a Bar, Lounge, and Garden Restaurant. It did not disappoint. The ambiance was amazing – a beautiful green outdoor space, with amazing lighting and our table was set to perfection. Putu, our waiter, was a delight. The lazy jazz live music was a bonus. Perfect for the last night of our holiday.
Day 24
Sunday 16th August
Candidasa to Denpasar
23-28 degrees, sunny
Different breakfast venue today, and only a five minute walk from the villa – Le Jardin Restaurant at Rosso Hotel. Another peaceful garden setting with nice relaxing music playing, and an extensive breakfast menu.
Time to say goodbye to Candidasa – our lift arrived at 10am to take us to Seminyak. Rick and Mygyn still had a couple of days in Bali, and our flight out wasn’t until 2220 tonight – so a few hours to fill in until then.
Luckily we could leave our bags at their hotel – Double Six in Seminyak. We managed to fill in a couple of hours shopping, of course the boys were excited about that! Back in time for a light snack and a drink on the rooftop bar before we got a Grab to the airport. The usual traffic to contend with going to the airport.
Our flight was Qantas at 2220, to Sydney.
Day 25
Monday 17th August
Home
13-21 degrees, markedly cooler!
A 6:20am arrival in Sydney, a transfer to the domestic terminal, then a two-hour wait before our Brisbane flight. Those overnight flights never seem to get any easier, but by midday we were finally home, tired but very happy.
And what a holiday it has been! Indonesia delivered far more than we expected — incredible scenery, amazing wildlife, fabulous food, wonderful resorts and plenty of adventures along the way. From Java and Borneo to Flores and Bali, there were surprises around every corner.
Indonesia has definitely won us over. We absolutely loved it and would recommend it in a heartbeat. What a fabulous adventure!
Glammy Goes Global 